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Routes in Lost T
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Teriyaki Hairpiece T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Keegans 5.8 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Expiration 66 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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CB Love Grannys S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Ten B S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Freckles and No Lipstick S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Spelunking T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Keyhole, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Courtney Marie's Boobies T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Crimps Are For Pimps T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Little Kisses T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Parthenope S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Five Star Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dixie Normus T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wide Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dike, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mean Sister T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Coach and Mary T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Emily Doesn't Have a Clue T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Flavor of the Day S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unnamed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sumo Wrestlers are Hard To Kidnap T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Waiting for the Sun T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Jeff Erickson, 2012; direct start added 2020 Jonathan Nickel |
| Page Views: | 718 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | J. Nickel on Jul 21, 2020 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Description
The beautiful finger cracks on the upper 3/4 of this climb were climbed by Erickson in 2012 by traversing in from the right after climbing the start of Wide Crack. A direct start with three bolts was added in 2020, making the route an excellent independent line.
Start by scrambling up 6' to the ledge below Wide Crack, move left on the ledge and stand up on a block. Face climb up past a small overhang and right-facing corner, then follow bolts slightly left to the start of the crack. Climb the outstanding finger crack up and a little left (almost to 5 Star Crack), then up and right, as the crack jogs right at several horizontals to a two bolt anchor with rings at the top of the cliff.
Start by scrambling up 6' to the ledge below Wide Crack, move left on the ledge and stand up on a block. Face climb up past a small overhang and right-facing corner, then follow bolts slightly left to the start of the crack. Climb the outstanding finger crack up and a little left (almost to 5 Star Crack), then up and right, as the crack jogs right at several horizontals to a two bolt anchor with rings at the top of the cliff.
Protection
The route can be safely led ground up (green Alien in the horizontal under the small overhang), but it is possible to use a long stick clip to clip the first bolt. After the three bolts, the route follows a remarkably consistent finger-sized crack to the anchor. Therefore, bring many finger-sized cams (blue and yellow Metolius, green and yellow Aliens, 0.2 - 0.4 Black Diamond). Triples in that range would be appropriate. The crack generally does not take nuts well. There is no need for any gear larger than a 0.75 Camalot, although there is an optional #4 Camalot placement in a horizontal 3/4 of the way up.
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