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> Devil's Castle
Devil's Lettuce
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.5 from 4
votes
Routes in Devil's Castle
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Black Streak T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bush Bullshit S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Des Teufels Bollwerk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Easy Snow PG13 |
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Devil Made Me Do It, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Devil's Lettuce S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dick Cheese Ball Cheney S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Evil Eye T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Friday the 13th T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Gothic Miller S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gothic Pillar T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Hellevator Shaft T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Horns Of Satan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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North Face Chimney T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a M5 R |
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Political Prisioner S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Poon Limp or Eat Crust T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Portable Darkness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Shadow of the Blade T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Touch of Grey T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, Alpine, 220 ft (67 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | FA: Phillips & Douglas, '06. FFA: Watson & Phillips, '10. |
| Page Views: | 1,151 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Greg Gavin on Jul 13, 2020 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation
Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
A fun 2 pitch route lookers left and slightly downhill from Horns of Satan and the North Face Gulley. This thing is sports the steepest pitch at the Devils Castle!
P1: Belay on a ledge with a steep roof overhead. Pull the roof and follow the bolts and 1 pin to the 2 bolt belay. This belay stance kind of sucks, but whatever.
P2: Pull another roof to begin and continue up that nice yellow glazed limestone (aka the good stuff at the castle). The pitch is predominantly jugs with one reachy move. After the crux you'll funk your way up a cool dihedral with some more huge holds and finish with an airy traverse when you're nice and pumped. Belay on a really nice ledge at a 2 bolt anchor.
Descend with 2 one rope rappels. The first rap is 90% free hanging so watch your rope ends and kick off the wall just before hitting the p1 station. The second rap is chill and deposits you right where you started.
the granite guide has incorrect beta for both route length and protection needed.
P1: Belay on a ledge with a steep roof overhead. Pull the roof and follow the bolts and 1 pin to the 2 bolt belay. This belay stance kind of sucks, but whatever.
P2: Pull another roof to begin and continue up that nice yellow glazed limestone (aka the good stuff at the castle). The pitch is predominantly jugs with one reachy move. After the crux you'll funk your way up a cool dihedral with some more huge holds and finish with an airy traverse when you're nice and pumped. Belay on a really nice ledge at a 2 bolt anchor.
Descend with 2 one rope rappels. The first rap is 90% free hanging so watch your rope ends and kick off the wall just before hitting the p1 station. The second rap is chill and deposits you right where you started.
the granite guide has incorrect beta for both route length and protection needed.
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