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Ultimate Traverse
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Ultimates West
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After the Gold Rush T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Brown Nosing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crustifarian, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Cry Havoc T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Lil' Slopie S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Lil' Smokie Goes All The Way S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Lil' Smokie Shoots for the Moon S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Lil' Smokie's First Crush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lil' Smokie's First Toke S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Lil' Smokie's Wild Ride T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Lizard Howler Break Dance, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Metal Detector S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Pink Cloud S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pumphouse Primer T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sandy Lou Who T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Shut Out the World S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Twist of Fate T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Ultimarete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Ultimate Bag Of Tricks T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Ultimate Dirty Sanchez, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ultimate Finger Crack T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ultimate Fist Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Ultimate Lube Job T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ultimate Traverse T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Ultimatum, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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White Wedding T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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You'll Never Be a Blacksmith With Flippers Like Those T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Young Guns T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Zach Harrison, Chris Kalman |
| Page Views: | 854 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Kalman on Jun 30, 2020 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
As you drop into the canyon from Newman Park, it's hard not to stop and admire the beautiful lichen-streaked upper slab of the buttress just left of the UFC gully. Now you can climb it.
Unfortunately, the first pitch is somewhat forgettable; but the upper climbing is pretty darn good. And hey, it's a tower summit!
P1: 5.10. Press out a mantle into the giant cave, walk up and left, and climb choss to a bolt. Climb a little more choss into an open book corner. Climb the corner on pretty decent stone to anchors on a ledge. (doubles from blue metolius to #2, single 3, 4, and 5)
P2: 5.10+. traverse hard right all the way across the buttress clipping bolts and passing a couple of possible gear placements (finger sizes) on your way to a two bolt anchor on an airy perch next to the arete. (10 or so quickdraws and slings... mostly slings... singles from blue metolius to .5)
P3: Two options: 1.) 5.9. The original finish: climb up and left on enjoyable crack climbing (bring singles of BD .3 to #2) to the top, and belay off a tree (doublelength sling is long enough). 2. 5.11+. Climb the bolted arete to a finger crack finish (bring a few draws and singles from .3-.5) and belay at two glue-in bolts on a nice ledge.
*** P2 and P3 are meant to be linked if you do the arete finish. They can also be linked if you do the original finish; just sling out almost all the pro, and expect a little rope drag near the top.
*** From the top of either finish, top out and walk a few meters climber's left (south) til you find rap chains directly above the P1 anchors.
Unfortunately, the first pitch is somewhat forgettable; but the upper climbing is pretty darn good. And hey, it's a tower summit!
P1: 5.10. Press out a mantle into the giant cave, walk up and left, and climb choss to a bolt. Climb a little more choss into an open book corner. Climb the corner on pretty decent stone to anchors on a ledge. (doubles from blue metolius to #2, single 3, 4, and 5)
P2: 5.10+. traverse hard right all the way across the buttress clipping bolts and passing a couple of possible gear placements (finger sizes) on your way to a two bolt anchor on an airy perch next to the arete. (10 or so quickdraws and slings... mostly slings... singles from blue metolius to .5)
P3: Two options: 1.) 5.9. The original finish: climb up and left on enjoyable crack climbing (bring singles of BD .3 to #2) to the top, and belay off a tree (doublelength sling is long enough). 2. 5.11+. Climb the bolted arete to a finger crack finish (bring a few draws and singles from .3-.5) and belay at two glue-in bolts on a nice ledge.
*** P2 and P3 are meant to be linked if you do the arete finish. They can also be linked if you do the original finish; just sling out almost all the pro, and expect a little rope drag near the top.
*** From the top of either finish, top out and walk a few meters climber's left (south) til you find rap chains directly above the P1 anchors.
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