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Toxic Masculinity
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British A3+ PG13
Avg: 3 from 3
votes
Routes in North Side
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Appomattox (aka Rowins's Route) 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2+ |
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Blue Steel Throbber T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 R |
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Bombelay T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Brain Dead T A4 |
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Captain Kangaroo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Carolina Hog Farm T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 PG13 |
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Cornflake Crack T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Creatures of Waste T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3 |
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Deep Cycle T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Delapidated T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Deliverance aka : Squeal Like a Pig T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Extracrimpy Chicken T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fear of Flying T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Glass Eye T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Glass I ( Pitch 1 ), The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Glass Menagerie, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Guillotine, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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House of Cards Var. A3- |
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Invisible Airways T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2 |
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Invisible Airways Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Invisible Brailleways T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Kahntian Ethics T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Killer Whales T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Menagerie Direct T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a R |
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Not Waste Away T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Nuclear Erection T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Off the Wall T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Pooter the Poacher T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Practice Aid Route T,TR A2 |
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Reign of Fire T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Ride the Lightning T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Safari Arete (extension) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Safari Jive T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Safari Jive Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Safari Jive Double Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Saint of Circumstance T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
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Scott Fischer Memorial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 |
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Seal, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Shrimp Cocktail T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Southern Hospitality Var. T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A3 R |
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Sperm, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Toxic Masculinity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3+ PG13 |
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Unknown (just left of Safari Jive) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Waste not want not direct T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Waste Not, Want Not T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Waverly Waster T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Whitney's Excellent Route T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Womb, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Zombie Zoo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A3+ R |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 5 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Jeff Burton & Todd Wells |
| Page Views: | 1,571 total · 29/month |
| Shared By: | Dylan Valvo on Jun 28, 2020 |
| Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags
Details
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
As of today this is the north face of LGR’s newest complete route going to to the top of the main wall. An interesting line through one of the wildest sections on the wall done by a couple of the south’s most prolific aid climbers. These guys have already put some serious work in and have been climbing on this wall since the hay day.
Pitch 1 Climb Waste Not Want Not to gain the Waste Ledge. Yell “waste” loud AF 5.10 C1 or 5.12
Pitch 2 From the last bolt on waste not want (the directional bolt) angle right and up aiming for a corner which is the end of the first pitch of Rowans Route. Hit the corner and climb the ledge right to the anchors. This is The Pirate Pitch so bring a couple hooks and keep em with you for the rest of the route. A3
Pitch 3 Finally all those Cotillion classes you took will come in handy. Wipe the sardine chunks off your mustache, holster your pistol, and put that spliff out. This is the Gentleman’s Pitch where you will climb on rivets, heads, and hooks with 2 bolts thrown in the mix. Journey left off the ledge (right is RR) climbing through a blocky section on mainly small heads then into the radically steep wave above. It’s best to skip the first belay you get to but if you are fixin and firing be mindful as a 60m could prob stretch you to the ground from the next one up but you might not get the rope back when you come off the rap. A 70m works fine from the above station though. “A0+“ ;)
Pitch 4 This is the crux pitch of the route. The Soy Boy Headwall. Leave the belay on heads and rurps to gain The Scythe. Be careful transferring to this feature as there is a loose flake that blends in on the wall that would most likely leave you with a bleeding belayer or worse if knocked off. Climb the scythe to its apex and transfer back onto a string of heads and hooks with a couple rivets thrown in the mix. A3+
Pitch 5 Exit the belay left and ease across the sloping ledge to gain the beautiful seam/crack that is the end of Brain Wall. Climb this to the top using small heads, units, hooks, and more eventually exiting the seam on hooks and escaping to a lone bolt belay. Another anchor can be made in a crack with large cams and the bolt can back it all up. From there escape to the woods out left. A3
Either hike off or go down a rappel that you already have done or know. Not the place for adventure rappelling.
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