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Jenni’s Way

5.10, Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches,  Avg: 4 from 4 votes
FA: Alex Lowe
Wyoming > Grand Teton NP > Mt Owen

Description

Jenni’s Way is an outstanding two pitch variation to the beginning of Serendipity Arete. The rock quality is impeccable, the cracks are splitter, and the position on the first tower is excellent! This is a highly recommend start to Serendipity for those climbing at the grade.

P1. Essentially, climb the entire first pitch of Serendipity Arete. After the 5.7 “hand traverse right above slab,” belay at a stance on the arete. Serendipity continues right around the corner, and the crack system on the opening pitch of Jenni’s Way is clearly visible above. 

P2. Climb the steep splitter left of the belay up toward some small roofs/bulges on the arete. At the second bulge, traverse hard left along a horizontal splitter that fractures the face and provides just enough footholds to make it manageable (not really seen from the belay). This felt like the 5.10 crux of the route. Continue up and left along a broken, discontinuous 5.9 crack system and belay beneath the beckoning hand crack above. (50m)

P3. Climb the beautiful 5.10- splitter In the face above which gradually tapers into a more variable crack system. Belay on flat ground above near the top of the first tower on Serendipity Arete. (30m)

P4+ Continue up Serendipity to the summit of Owen. Descend the West Ledges back into Vahalla, down climb the Koven, or link with the North Ridge/Italian Cracks on the Grand. 

Location

Same approach as Serendipity Arete. The cracks on Jenni’s Way can be examined from the Valhalla Canyon approach. 

Protection

Standard rack with at least doubles from .5 to #3, stoppers. Triples in #2 and #3 would not be unreasonable for the first pitch. 

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Alex Lowe on 2nd ascent of Jennifer's Way, Mount Owen, Summer 1996.
[Hide Photo] Alex Lowe on 2nd ascent of Jennifer's Way, Mount Owen, Summer 1996.
Alex Lowe at Summit of Jennifer's Way, Mount Owen. Summer 1996
[Hide Photo] Alex Lowe at Summit of Jennifer's Way, Mount Owen. Summer 1996
Jenni's Way from the base of the Serendipity approach
[Hide Photo] Jenni's Way from the base of the Serendipity approach
First pitch
[Hide Photo] First pitch
Top of the second pitch
[Hide Photo] Top of the second pitch
Topo for Jenni's Way
[Hide Photo] Topo for Jenni's Way

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jack Taylor
Bozeman, MT
  5.10
[Hide Comment] The "#3 hands splitter" is more #2 than #3. Aug 2, 2022
Dallin Carey
Missoula
 
[Hide Comment] Best pitches I've climbed in the park. Aug 29, 2022
[Hide Comment] I climbed this route with Alex Lowe for the 2nd ascent for a photo shoot. What a kind man. One of the pictures was used in his obituary in the New York Times. Sep 25, 2023