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Coyote Ugly
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Avg: 2.5 from 6
votes
Routes in 4. Wonderland Wall
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Adventures with Browdog T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Blackout T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Coyote Rain T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Coyote Ugly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Sanguine Avocado, The T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Short Stack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Speck In My Eye T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Trifecta T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Weston's Syrup T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Winter Classic T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wonderland T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Jon Browher, Zach Ross, 2020 |
| Page Views: | 817 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Jon Browher on Jun 23, 2020 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
A direct start variation to Coyote Rain. Flake the rope & have your belayer stand next to the tree, where the original start is to Coyote Rain.
Begin the climb to the left & below the original start, below a right-facing flake & directly underneath the pine tree way up that is growing underneath a detached triangular block.
Climb the lower slabs, then the flake, then a series of ledges. Clip the Chinos piton on the right, then continue up. Protect next in a small crack on the right (small pieces might make you feel better), then fire a somewhat thought-provoking crux.
At the pine tree, go right. Do not sling the tree or climb the detached block - its integrity is questionable. Should be fine left alone.
Continue right on jugs and up to the Coyote Rain roof. Fire the roof & continue up to the P1 tree anchor.
A climb for those of you who want to combine the thrilling roof of Coyote Rain with classic Longstack ledge-hopping. Can also be toproped after leading Coyote Rain P1.
FA J. Browher, Z. Ross, Jun 2020
2 Comments