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Routes in Palisade Head
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A Feathery Tong T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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A mind Forever Voyaging A3+ PG13 |
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A Sinner’s Last Gift T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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A Twister With Teeth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Aching Alms T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Aching Light T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Amphitrite [CURRENTLY CLOSED] T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Arms Race T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Avoidance 2x TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Bluebells T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bridges over Troubled Water T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bugaboo Project T 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b |
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Choice of a New Generation, The T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Christmas Tree Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Danger High Voltage T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Don't bring a knife to a gun fight a.k.a. "Gun Fight" T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Double Breasted Anchor T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Driving in Duluth T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Ecclesiastes T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Echoes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Echoes Arete S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ex Nihilo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Faith T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Fall of Ascomycetes, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Flight School T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fool's Progress, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Gales of November, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Genetically Correct T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Great Bird Chimney, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Grunge Off (aka Goliath's Finger Crack) T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Happy Happy, Joy Joy S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Hidden Agenda T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hidden Treasure T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hyper Light Drifter S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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I Could've Been a Contender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Iron Maiden T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jim's Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Johnny Tsunami T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Keystone T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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KGB T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Killing Me Softly T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Laceration Jam T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Lapidarian T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lightweaver S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Long Distance Commute T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lord of the flies (free) AKA: Comrades in Slings (aid) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mabley's Traverse T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Mack the Knife T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mann Act T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Metamorphosis, The T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mr. Lean T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Night Vision T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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No Sugar, No Baby T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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North Tower, South Face T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Northern Exposure (***CLOSED***) T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Old Men in Tight Pants TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Oz - (AKA The Road To Emerald City) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Palisaid T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Pamplemoose T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Phantom Corner T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Phantom Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Poseidon Adventure T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Praise the Many Seraphim T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Presents T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pussyfoot T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Quartz crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Queen of Venus T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Quetico Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rapprochement T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rejuvenation S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Scars and Tripes Forever T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Smear Job T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Smuggler's Cove T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Socket Wrench T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Soli Deo Gloria T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sound of One Hand Jamming, The T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Spruce Tips T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Squab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sudden Impact TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sunday Excursion T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Sunny and Sheer T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Superior Arete T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Superior Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Swimsuits and Harnesses T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Swizzlestick Legs T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Urge to Mate T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Warrior's Last Dance On Earth TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Water Babies T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wise Guys T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Withering Heights T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Yamadori [CURRENTLY CLOSED] T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Yellow Feather T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | Taylor Krosbakken. June 2020 |
| Page Views: | 1,611 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | Taylor Krosbakken on Jun 22, 2020 |
| Admins: | K Ice, Kris Gorny |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Temporary Peregrine Falcon access restrictions
Details
For most current closures please see the park's Visitor Alert message here: dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks…
When in doubt, you can inquire about the closures at the State Park Visitor Center (5702 Highway 61, Silver Bay), via email (tettegouche.statepark@state.mn.us), or by phone (218-353-8800).
When in doubt, you can inquire about the closures at the State Park Visitor Center (5702 Highway 61, Silver Bay), via email (tettegouche.statepark@state.mn.us), or by phone (218-353-8800).
Description
A scrappy little climb that works its way up an improbable blank face using a sharp arete as a sidepull and heel hook and then traversing into an amazing finger crack for the upper half
It is not your typical Palisade Head route. Short and punchy, no corners or stemming, and small nubin feet everywhere.
Lots of choices for how to start. The fist crack on the left, stem your way up against the column to the right, or just go directly up the face. Either way, your goal is to reach the horizontal crack 10 ft up and it doesn't really effect the grade.
Then work your way up the face using the sharp arete to your right and a few key holds on the face. Once level with the base of the finger crack, traverse left to it and try to find some feet to move up. Follow the finger crack getting better and better as you go up. Traverse slightly left up the diagonal hand crack near the top and then find some final good edges to finish.
Note: There is a lot of loose rock on top of this climb so it doesn't lend itself well to a top belay. Its not impossible, but if you move at all on top, you will likely rain down rock on your climber. Best to just set up a sling shot and rap down the escape gully. Even when leading, I set up a sling shot so I could just clip and lower and didn't have to top out, avoiding bombing my belayer with rocks.
Location
Broadly speaking it is in the Southern Ramparts area, about a quarter mile south of the parking lot and down a 3rd class scramble to reach the top of the climb. Between the popular easy climbs KGB and Socket Wrench.
The base of the climb is immediately to the right of Night Vision and left of the tall free standing pillar.
To reach the base, the easiest way is to rappel the escape gully.
See photos for a visual.
The base of the climb is immediately to the right of Night Vision and left of the tall free standing pillar.
To reach the base, the easiest way is to rappel the escape gully.
See photos for a visual.
Photos
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