La Roca Mas Fina

This is an incredible line up the South face of the main wall. It gets all day sun. The second and most of the third pitch are shared with a route put up by Mason Earle, Andrew Burr and Peter Vintinov (2015) Mason believes that the second pitch had been climbed previous to his ascent.

P1- Start 1 meter left of leaning block. Follow finger crack to a small roof. Continue up left of a larger roof feature into a lay back past  a bolt. Pass some blocks into a left facing corner and a belay ledge above. Sling the block. (5.10b), 25m

P2- #1 cam will protect the step left as well as the mantle above. Move into the large flake system. Climb the flake. Find gear everywhere you can moving between lay backs and getting into flares. The climbing eases off above. Follow the flake feature until a ledge with a bolted anchor is reached. (5.11c PG13), 40m

* Edit * This pitch has received three new bolts and may not be PG-13 anymore.

P3- Go up corner until the angle changes. Look for features on the right wall including a "Pocket" that will accept a #3 cam. Go straight up to a bolt gaining access to to a right trending ramp. Follow ramp past a corner until you are forced off the ramp. Hand traverse, passing one bolt and a horn to a stance. Avoid the bushy corner and climb up right into a hand crack behind a wedged block. (5.10a), 40m

P4- Climb up corner above. Where gear becomes less than ideal clip a bolt and keep going past the top of the corner. Sling the giant block. It is helpful to remember to look left and spot the rappel station if you are planning on rapping off. (5.10c), 40m

P5- Finish with this fantastic pitch that, even with three bolts and one fixed piece, will deplete your rack to just a few left over nuts. Save your smallest (.1 and .1/.2 offset) for the end. Use lots of long slings on this pitch. Also be very mindful of a rope eating flake out left that will make hauling or trailing a line problematic. To avoid any hangups have the second climb with the tag/haul up the easier climbing until a ramp leads out left. From here there will be no issue with releasing the tag line.  (5.12a) 55m  

Descent: Rappel the route with two 70m ropes. Second Rappel station is below and lookers right of big ledge. Or, continue to the summit of the main wall (5th class) and rappel (4 Raps) into the notch behind the formation with one 60m rope

Follow the obvious trail heading south from the end of the road and parking areas. After entering the drainage now follow the far less obvious trail up the drainage for a short while until the drainage splits. From here locate the cairn. They will be the toe of the ridge the forms here between the two drainages. work you way up to the base of the wall. About 1 hour 2100'.

The notch between Joeys tower (the pyramid shaped formation) and the main wall can be reached by one of two ways. The longer but easier, easier meaning no 4th class but a slog none the less, route is to travel below (East) of Joey's tower and approach the notch from the Southwest. Or follow the base of the main wall south. About 30' from where the gully chokes out look for a short scramble on the left to a ramp that will take you to the top of the choke.

From the top of the notch locate the large slab of granite leaning against wall. "La Roca Mas Fina" starts just left of this slab in a finger crack.

2300' Approach time: 1h30m