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Jackbone Arête

5.12+, Sport, TR, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 1.5 from 2 votes
FA: Jake Dayley, 2010
California > Lake Tahoe > I-80 Corridor > Donner Summit > Rest Stop Cliffs > 1. Leaning Tree Wall

Description

A method of pre-clipping the high first bolt is required to make this a pure sport climb. Either use a long stick clip or pre-place the draws from above.

Mostly easy climbing with two, quick, burly cruxes between the first and second, and second and third bolts. The cruxes both involve some pretty funky arête movement, with poor feet and hands.

Most of the climb is pretty dirty at the time of writing, and would benefit from quite a bit more traffic and cleaning.

Location

Arête between the steep face of the leaning tree to the left and the vertical face to the right.

Protection

3 bolts to a two-bolt anchor with quicklinks and one rap ring. Gear to 0.75" can be used to protect the moves below the high first bolt, otherwise use a long stick clip or pre-place from above.

Though a toprope can be setup easily by walking around the left side of the crag, the rope will rub quite a bit on the top ledges if the anchor is not extended significantly (~10 feet).

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Lurk Er
Truckee, CA
  5.12+
[Hide Comment] You can place another piece (0.5" or so) between the last bolt and the anchors. This is definitely more of a mixed gear/bolted route than a pure sport route, although it can be done on just bolts.

Also, this route might be a sandbag. Jul 25, 2020