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The Bulgarian Guides Route
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British R
Avg: 2.2 from 5
votes
Routes in Cracked Wall
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2 Hour 2 Tecate Challenge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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60 Minutes T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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60 Seconds Over Soledad (AKA Dead Rat's Crack) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bob's Cling TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bulgarian Guides Route, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Burn Permit S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Camel S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Camelin' T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Choss Boss Direct S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Civilized Evil T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crank You, Thank You S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Crankin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Curley Shuffle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Curly Air S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dirty Rat's Crack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Found Bolt S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Guide's Area TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Humps T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Jetstream TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Llama T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lord Fresno S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Love in an Elevator T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Mouse Maze T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Namasté T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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No Permit Required S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Only Way To Fly S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rat Race S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Slimy Slit (aka Slippery Slit) TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Western Airlines S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 729 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | soyo climber on Jun 9, 2020 |
| Admins: | andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Moderate climbing and tricky gear placements with ground-fall potential for the first half make this a must-do for those confident at the grade and who want to experience a little excitement in climbing after all those boringly safe bolted routes. The moves are probably less than 5.9. The guide photo on MP for Cracked Wall shows this as 5.9 PG; I'm giving it an R if we define R as "a fall could be dangerous." Several placements are in awkward stances and are difficult placements with marginal gear. If you blow it in the first half, you are likely hitting the ground unless you're right at a piece and the gear holds!
I placed a pink and red tricam in a couple holes for the first 2 placements--i couldn't get anything else to fit after fiddling with offset brassies, but the tricams are bomber! Trend left a little bit at one point, passing a micro-roof feature to your right. After a few more moves, a crack opens up near halfway where u get a nice cam placement (C4 #.3-.75 range). A few more moves gets you to the only bolt on this route, then easier ground straight up to the Civilized Evil anchor.
I placed a pink and red tricam in a couple holes for the first 2 placements--i couldn't get anything else to fit after fiddling with offset brassies, but the tricams are bomber! Trend left a little bit at one point, passing a micro-roof feature to your right. After a few more moves, a crack opens up near halfway where u get a nice cam placement (C4 #.3-.75 range). A few more moves gets you to the only bolt on this route, then easier ground straight up to the Civilized Evil anchor.
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