All Locations > Washington > Central Region > Frenchman Coule… > Frenchman Coulee > Zig Zag Wall

Center of the Earth

Name: Center of the Earth
Rating: 1.0

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British

Routes in Zig Zag Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Ananathema T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Anarchist's Cookbook S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Beautiful Serpent Lied to Me, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Burning Down the House S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Center of the Earth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Chocolate Orange S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Edge of Mistakes T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Group Therapy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	I'm Alright T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Ill-Advised Crossover S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Jagged Edge, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Jeff's Crack T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	La Llarona T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Lady in Red T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Little Book of Lies S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Love in the Time of COVID T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Mr. Nice Guy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Neon Indian S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Nice Dreams S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	One of These Days (Mohel With a Dull Knife) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Orangekist S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Scissor Man S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Secret Passage S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Somewhere On Earth T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Starless in Vantage S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Table Dance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Take Control T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Tank Target T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Unfinished Business S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Up in Smoke T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Vehicular Basalt S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Type:	Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA:	Russell Johnson & Glen Cambron (1987)
Page Views:	537 total · 9/month
Shared By:	Gosh Glance on Jun 7, 2020 · Updates
Admins:	Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

A semi-rotten hand crack with ample face-holds transitions to a finger/tips crack. The rock quality improves dramatically about half way up before an awesome lieback sequence (crux). Rock quality suddenly deteriorates before topping out, so climb delicately and watch out for some death blocks a little bigger than an end table. They can be avoided, but be really careful.

Don't pass up any opportunities for good gear down low on this route. There are solid placements there, but take extra care to ensure you find them! You're probably not going to fall because of the difficulty of the moves, but a fall due to a hold exploding is very realistic.

Don't let this detract you from the climb- it's not amazing, but def worth doing for the lieback sequence up top.

GEAR BELAY: the gear belay is on the climbers left about 2' below the mesa top. Bring a #4 and a 0.5 for sure; I also plugged an offset 0.5/0.75 BD cam adjacent/right of the 0.5 in the same slot. See pic- it's really your only option, otherwise I wouldn't spray so much gear beta.

Location

The crack climb two cracks right of Jagged Edge. It's the next crack past the obvious offwidth.

Protection

>Singles #0.2, #0.3, #1, #3, #4 for gear anchor
>>Doubles: #0.4, #0.5, #0.75, #2*.
>>>If you own an offset #0.5/0.75 (purple/green), bring it for the anchor.

Triples of #2 might be nice if you want to sew it up like I did because of the rock quality. I had to get more creative without a third, but it was fine.