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Routes in Eyetooth
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Dental Dam T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Eyetooth T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Chris Hirsch, Shankar Zamora, Matt Scherer; ground-up June 2020 |
| Page Views: | 664 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Hirsch on Jun 2, 2020 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
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Description
This all-gear route climbs the steep North side of Eyetooth. For the approach pitch, beginning from the North, climb up a short hand crack located in between Tusk and Eyetooth. Then follow ledges up left into a gully/chimney filled with precarious boulders. Belay at a decent perch below the route. For the real climbing; take easy climbing up wide cracks and chimney to the right of the route's runnel feature above. Sling and mantel large horn then carefully lean over to place gear and get established in the steep crack. Follow crack all the way to the top through slopey liebacking, off balance crystal pinching, hard to place gear, a small runout, and a wicked pump. Mantel over the lip and you're at the bolted anchor of the original route.
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