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Aretha
Access Issue: Thompson Canyon
Details
The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route.
New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and please do not attempt to drive through the private ranch.
Description
Tip toe up dirty, friable slab past the first two bolts to the steepening terrain and the third bolt. Above here the quality improves as you climb steepening terrain on pockets and great jugs through the lip bulge. A couple more bolts protect the easier yet licheny climbing to the anchor.
For those used to the long-standing, well-trafficked routes at the Tower, understand that new routes take a while to clean up. This isn't the gym nor a 10-year-old route with plenty of previous traffic.
Location
The right-most route on the left wall up the birth canal area. A small log and rocks platform marks the start.
Protection
9 bolts to a two bolt anchor with lowering biners.
![Fred moving through the steeper climbing below the juggy lip. May 2020.]()
[Hide Photo] Fred moving through the steeper climbing below the juggy lip. May 2020.
![Heading into the juggy bulge moves. May 2020.]()
[Hide Photo] Heading into the juggy bulge moves. May 2020.
Avg: 1.8 from 4
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