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Routes in 04. Barrett's Cove Cliff
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Becky-Joy Route, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Broken Elevator (a/k/a Robert's Fall) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Buffy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bugaboo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Charlotte's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Clamdigger Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Clothesline WI3+ |
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Continental Cracks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Desperado T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Equinox T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Floral Morals T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fourth of July (mid-cliff START) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Ghost Town T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Goat Yoga T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Good Omens T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Harmonic Convergence T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Heathrow - Ice Climb WI3+ |
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Hidden Attraction T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hollywood Waltz T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Hotel California T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jack-in-the-Pulpit T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Joe's Route - Ice Climb WI2 |
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Joker T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Obscure Object of Desire S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Old Spice T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Old Spud T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Old Stud S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pandora T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pandora Freeway (mid-cliff START) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Poison Ivy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Queen Charlotte T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Savasana T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Skidmarks (mid-cliff START) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Slow Children (mid-cliff START) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Spawn T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Spider (mid-cliff START) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Standard Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Summertime Blues T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Tangled Up in Blue (mid-cliff START) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Templeton's Crack (mid-cliff START) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Throne of the Mountain King T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Together Through Life T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Toontown (mid-cliff START) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Tritium Witch (mid-cliff START) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Velvet Underground T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Web (mid-cliff START), The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Weed-O-Dendron T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wherever You Go, There You Are T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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White Streak T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Witchy Woman (mid-cliff START) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Young Stud T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Alan Rees, Ben Townsend, Dorcas Miller |
| Page Views: | 661 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Townsend on May 25, 2020 |
| Admins: | Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
1. Scramble easily up the chimney to a short finger crack on the left wall. Climb the left wall, passing a bolt, to a ledge. Step right and climb a short friction slab past another bolt; diagonal up right to a stance with a gear anchor. (5.8, 60') (To do this pitch by itself, stay left of the second bolt and go to the big pine tree on Charlotte's Crack.)
2. Step right and climb the overhanging headwall past two bolts. Follow a crack system more or less straight up the slab above, pulling a short headwall on the left to reach Broadway. Belay at the bolted anchor of Charlotte's Crack. (5.9+, 70')
If doing this route in one pitch, use long runners on the lower part to alleviate rope drag.
2. Step right and climb the overhanging headwall past two bolts. Follow a crack system more or less straight up the slab above, pulling a short headwall on the left to reach Broadway. Belay at the bolted anchor of Charlotte's Crack. (5.9+, 70')
If doing this route in one pitch, use long runners on the lower part to alleviate rope drag.
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