Kakaw
5.12+ YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 2.5 from 4 votes
Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Abel Jones and Josh McClure May 2020 |
Page Views: | 1,265 total · 23/month |
Shared By: | Abel Jones on May 23, 2020 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
PITCH 1: 10b 70m: Link the first two pitches of Rites of Spring or do Free Beaks 12b into Belly of the Beast 12d for the hard girl version. Ledge with 4 bolt anchor.
PITCH 2: 12a 40m: Head right into commiting but well protected 11d liebacking (Wrongs of Spring 11d in the new guidebook) that ends at a full stance rest. Milk it then set off into steep hand jams and a punch it thin section to another full rest followed by more glory hands up a pillar to a 2 bolt anchor at a ledge.
PITCH 3: 11+ 30m: Have the belayer hang low off the left bolt and let the leader use the right one to protect the 11+ boulder problem off the stance. Small gear can be found mid boulder problem but is hard to place. Ignore the bolt up and out right (A0) and continue up the well protected 10a corner above. At the second roof look for a downward face traverse protected by 3 bolts out right. It looks wild but goes at a fun and interesting mid 11 and ends at a nice hand crack. Protect high for the follower and end at a two bolt anchor at a stance.
PITCH 4: 12c 35m: Head straight right, a bit of gear gets you to the bolt protected 12+ boulder problem which ends at a splitter crack. Pump your way up the nice cupped to thin hands single and double cracks to a one bolt 10+ boulder move to the anchors at a hanging stance below the big roof.
PITCH 5: 12c 15m: For the last two pitches all you need is a single set of micro cams to #2 so leave everything else at the anchor. Climb right under the roof placing gear off the belay then clipping the 1st of 4 bolts. Get your try hard on and navigate right then up and out the roof at a weakness clipping bolts as you go. Rest at a stance and place a small piece or two and crack climb to small ledge with 2 bolt anchor.
PITCH 6: 12c 30m: Pumpy sport crack climbing takes you up the incredible leftward feature through several boulder problems to some interesting arete moves. Surf the satisfying and easy arete to a glorious ledge and 2 bolt anchor.
DESCENT: 6 raps with one 70 meter and knots in the end. Rap the route skipping the anchors above pitch 5. Do a straight down rap from the top of pitch 4 to a ledge with a two bolt anchor. WARNING: Don't use these anchors due to potential to pull rock off during the pulls. Instead swing left to the top of pitch 3 for a clean pull. From there rap straight down to anchors on ministry wall. You can NOT rap pitch 2 with a 70 and it Leans too much. We're going to go back at night and clean up the straight down rappels.
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