Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Ryan Wolfe & Josh Baker, '00
Page Views: 605 total · 11/month
Shared By: Keelan Carothers on May 22, 2020
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Climb the chimney/cave to the left of the black streak. Boulder move (height helps) over the bulge and follow the right-facing dihedral. Belay. Continue past the tree following discontinuous cracks to the juniper belay above.
-via the Bill Cramer guidebook

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Pitch one is really where the money is on this climb. Absolutely worth it for that pitch. Chimneying out of the cave to surmount the boulder that leads to the dihedral was a ton of fun, and easy enough to protect. There is an opening in the chimney that looks directly at the beginning of the dihedral, aim for that. Outside of the cave seems to be another option to gain the boulder, but it was quite overgrown so we opted to go inside. Once on top of the boulder there is a thin bouldery move to gain the dihedral, which was slightly committing, maybe a little bit tricky pro there, but i was able to get my smallest totem in the thin crack right before the move. After you've gained the dihedral it's some very fun finger and hand crack traversing to the belay.

Pitch two was very easy, following discontinuous cracks. I ran this pitch out to avoid rope drag.

Overall a really enjoyable climb in a great area with lots of other fun stuff nearby! 

Location Suggest change

Once you've reached the base of Waves of Rock from the approach head to the left (east face) side of the formation, staying as close to the wall as it will allow. Scramble past large boulders and up caves, passing a large black streak (which is another great route).

The right facing dihedral can't be missed, and the large cave/chimney that leads up to it is the start of the route.

Protection Suggest change

small to OW. Gear and Natural Anchors

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