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Tiny Dancer
5.9+ PG13,
Trad, 80 ft (24 m),
Avg: 1.8 from 8
votes
FA: Tim & Friend
Arizona
> Northern Arizona
> Central Mogollo…
> W Clear Creek
> Anti-Crag
Description
Work up to the top of the ledge with micro gear; the moves here aren't hard but the micro gear placement may get you a little heady (PG-13 but not hard). Once on the ledge, make a boulder move, which can feel harder than 5.9 (depending on how you piece it together) to get established in the crack systems. Follow the fingers to broken rock seam up to ledge, followed by an excellent fingers finish. If the chunky rock in the middle section gives you strife, you can easily reach left and place "bomber" hand sized protection in the hands crack of Moonwalk. Shares two bolt anchor with Moonwalk - on top ledge, to the left when finishing.
Location
Far right side of Anti-Crag. Just right of Symmetry, Line Dance, and Moonwalk.
Protection
Micros/nuts for start
Single - 2 & 3
Doubles - .2-.3 & .5-1
Triple or Quad - .4
Slings
[Hide Photo] Moonwalk (left) and Tiny Dancer (right).
[Hide Photo] Looking down at the very enjoyable upper fingers section of Tiny Dancer.
[Hide Photo] Ryan getting established in the right crack system.