Tricks Are For Kids
5.13a/b YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E7 6c British
Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
FA: | Steve Hong |
Page Views: | 2,634 total · 44/month |
Shared By: | Will Sharp on May 18, 2020 · Updates |
Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
As per David Bloom in the 2008 guide book. This climb is in an access sensitive area due to its proximity to the Dugout Ranch and the Paragon Prow. He chose to not include most routes at this wall to discourage excessive climber traffic that might compromise access to this and many other walls in Indian Creek. If you are truly up to the task please go in small parties and maintain a low profile.
Probably one of the finest cracks in the Creek, or for that matter, anywhere. 45 meters of perfect varnish stone. Run 4 laps back to back on Slice and Dice and you'll probably be ready...
Bring all your green Camalots, and probably all your buddies too.
Tricks starts in a right facing corner with thin fingers opening to thin hands at a little ledge where you can milk a little rest before the business. From here set sail into a semmingly endless section of ring locks thru 2 overlaps until it drops to rattly fingers towards the top. Hold your shit together and juice your way to the anchors. Placing gear definitely adds difficulty so trim down that rack and stretch it out!
An extension continues another 50(?) feet at a similar size. Not sure what this would do to the grade.
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