Type: Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches
FA: S. Eichinger, H. Weninger, G. Kroh - April 1983
Page Views: 1,319 total · 22/month
Shared By: Vasili Onjea on May 17, 2020
Admins: Jason Halladay, Luke Bertelsen, Loren P

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Description Suggest change

Corner of Madness (Greek: Δίεδρο της Σχιζοφρένειας) is one of the few classic trad routes in Meteora. The route follows a right-facing dihedral up the south-east face of the Holy Ghost tower. Although the route is sparsely equipped with bolts, a trad rack is highly advised as some of the bolts aren't in excellent condition and they can be run out.

Approach

A 30 minute hike from the village of Kastraki brings you to the base of the route: https://goo.gl/maps/vEgVh6EPg9DtQMg5A (Coordinates: 39.718889, 21.626389). The climber's trail can be seen using Google Earth.

Descent

From the summit walk west to the top of the "Way of the Water" route (a.k.a. "Water Route" or "Route of Water"). Rappel the "Way of the Water" route (3 rappels: double ropes or single 80m), then walk back to the base of Corner of Madness skirting the south face of Holy Ghost. Follow the climber's trail back to the village of Kastraki.

Location Suggest change

The route is located on the south-east face of the Holy Ghost tower. Precise Google Maps location: https://goo.gl/maps/vEgVh6EPg9DtQMg5A 

Protection Suggest change

Most parties bring two ropes.

Cams: Up to 4''. A single 5'' could be helpful for the third and fourth pitches.

Quick-draws: Many, especially if linking pitches.

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