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Chutes and Ladders

Name: Chutes and Ladders
Rating: 2.0

5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British

Routes in Willow Springs South

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	Abdominizer, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Above and Beyond T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Above, Above and Beyond T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Beyond and Above T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Cereal Killer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Chocolate Tranquility Fountain T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Chutes and Ladders T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Count Chocula T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Double Pin-etration T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Fruit Loops T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Fun And Games T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Geezer's Face T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Gimpy Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Hawk Eye T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Headless Chocolate Bunny T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Honey Combs S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Little Black Book T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Lucky Charms T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	N'Plus Ultra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Nadia's Nine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	New Hips Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	New Hips Face T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Pillar Talk T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Senior Moment T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Sleeper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Taking Care of Business T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Unknown T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Wheat Thick T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type:	Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	1,264 total · 23/month
Shared By:	cassondra l on May 16, 2020
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Description

A micro adventure route that has many aspects of a long multipitch: not obvious approach, scramble to base, where to leave the pack strategizing, route finding, no bolts, rappel descent down a different aspect of the feature. Great for dialing your multipitch systems, without having to stress a bunch on the climbing aspect.

P1: After scrambling up a ladder-like section of rock, belay the leader from an alcove at the base of a nice varnished crack with large huecos. Climb up past a very cool cave, to just beneath a roof, then pull a slabby move or two left (well protected crux.) (Do not be tempted to go left lower on what looks like easier rock; it is unprotected and crunchy.) Scrunch under the bulge and climb into a comfortable narrow ledge nook. Build an anchor in the cracks at your feet. 5.5, 80' or so.

P:2 Climb up a varnished flare on the right side of the ledge. Continue up until reaching the obvious wide open area at the top. There are several options to build an anchor. 5.5? Another 80' or so.

Descent: Scramble down a rampy boulder into a sort of large hole, just climbers' left of where the climbing stops on P2. At the bottom of the boulder continue down further and a bit right down a 4th class ramp. Scramble down until the need to rappel presents itself. There is a rappel anchor on a tree or bush( I forget which, but it is easy to spot.) Rappel down to a scrub oak with a webbing anchor (brushy.) This gets you to the middle of the second pitch of Nadia's Nine. 2 raps from the bush and down Nadia's Nine gets you to the base of, well, Nadia's Nine, which is around the corner to the left of Chutes and Ladders. If you left your pack at the base, you might be kicking yourself for not leaving it somewhere less effortful to get to. Variation: If you are able to determine that you are at the top of the first pitch of Nadia's Nine, you can scramble climbers left and down, instead rappeling that pitch.

Note: If soloing the route, descend by down-climbing the way you came up.

Location

Approach the same as for Nadia's Nine, but instead of going left at the top of the slope, go right around the corner generally following the cliff band where the going looks most trailish. As you come around to the east side of the formation, there is a ramp with a way through the bushes that leads up to a ledgey area with a good size pine tree (the pine tree will be to your left when you are at the top of the ramp and about to scramble up about 4-5 feet.) After walking on a large flat boulder, you can see the ladder feature, which is the base of the route.

Protection

Single rack to 3 or 4 with extra #1 Camalots or equivalent, the more the merrier. (If you are conservative, 3- # 1's will give you one for the P1 anchor, which mostly takes #1"s, as does the initial crack.) Take webbing and quick links or leaver biners in case the old existing webbing is sun damaged or missing. This is an adventure route....