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Anchors Away AKA Enchained Melody
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
Routes in A. Shelter 1 Bluff
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Anchors Away AKA Enchained Melody S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Barnes Overhang S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bulge, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Camel's Back S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Charlie’s Traverse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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City Limits S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Crackpot S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Dead Dog T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Dead Dog Walking S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Diagonal Direct S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Dim View S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Double Barrel S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Drunkard's Crack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Easy Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Easy Face S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Full Moon Foot Dance V1 5 X |
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George's Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Georges Nose S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Graves S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gully, The S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Hip Pocket S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hot Toddy S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Idiot, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Im A Bitch TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Jill's S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Joe's Variation S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Layback Hump Linkup S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Makanda Layback S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Monkey Moves S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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My Feet Are Smiling S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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No Vacancy TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Nowhere S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Open Book Direct S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Poison Ivy Center T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Poison Ivy Right T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rappellers' Demise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Right Side Route S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Saluki Strut S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Shake and Bake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Shake And Bake Direct S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Shotgun S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Slightly Harder Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Smooth City S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Standing On Air S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Step Ladder S Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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Tempura Tour "Classic" T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tempura Tour "Complete" T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Tiny Dancer S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Walk Up S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Walking Gunslinger S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | May 9, 2020. Andrew Staff and Dave Hug |
| Page Views: | 980 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Andrew Staff on May 10, 2020 |
| Admins: | Dave Hug, Kevin Sierzega, Aaron Mc |
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Access Issue: Stick Clipping Is Highly Recommended
Details
While all routes have been thoughtfully bolted, many lines contain a high first bolt. So, the local ethic is to stick clip the first bolt, and eliminate ground falls.
Description
This route traverses almost the entire length of the cliff. From the anchors of "Drunkards Crack" all the way across the bluff to the anchors of "Easy Crack". The climbing isn't that difficult, there are some tricky down climbing sections as well as a couple of run out spots. It's a fun way to get some easy mileage in and to touch some holds you probably haven't touched before. I belayed the second at the anchors for Gráves and the anchors for The Chimney.
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