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Routes in Roadside Rock
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Unknown T,TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Pet Memorial Services S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hands That Go Bump in the Night S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hands that Go Bump in the Night - Right S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Albino TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Daddy's Dream Seam TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Daddy's BMW S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Daddy's Midlife Crisis S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | TR, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,421 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Clayton Woock on May 9, 2020 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
Disclaimer: I would be surprised if nobody has ever climbed this route before, but I cannot find it established online anywhere. I recommend a grade of 5.10c (if "Hand That Go Bump In The Night" is 5.10b, this is definitely more difficult).
Route: Start on the corner of the arete. Follow the crack to the right, around the arete, onto the graffiti-buffed face and continue following the crack. When the crack ends, traverse left onto the moss-covered shelf and mantle to top out at the anchor. (See photo for details)
Protection
Scramble up the left side of the rock to set up a two-bolt top rope anchor. Use the bolt hangers. I personally used a 30ft long 7mm cordelette and rigged a "magic-x" with stopper knots to create a self-equalizing anchor. The belayer belayed from the road's edge. You should ALWAYS use YOUR OWN best judgment to determine the best anchor setup and rigging for the route you intend to climb.
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