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The Tehipite Sanction
5.13- YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E7 6c British
Avg: 4 from 3
votes
Routes in Tehipite Dome
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Astro-Gil T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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In the Niche of Time T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3+ |
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One For The Homies T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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One for the Ladies T |
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Tehipite Dome - North Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Tehipite Dome - Southwest Face (Kroger) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A4 |
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Tehipite Sanction, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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There and Back Again T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Time Warp (Beckey) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Too Hip T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Wall of Ages T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A0 |
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Wilderness Serenity T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 2400 ft (727 m), 17 pitches |
| FA: | Rob Pizem, Ari Menitove, Mike Brumbaugh, 7/2010; FFA: Seth Carter, John Cannon, 2019 |
| Page Views: | 2,635 total · 45/month |
| Shared By: | Clint Cummins on Apr 17, 2020 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Always check SEKI road conditions and peregrine closures
Details
Moro Rock (SEKI) and Chimney Rocks usually have nesting closures every year from April 1 to August 15.
As of April 2016, all routes are open to climbing.
Description
10/11 pitches (1200') below the main ledge, then apparently joins Too Hip for the final 6 pitches (1200') and a pretty straight line from bottom to top of the formation.
The lower pitches can be approached by rapping down the route from the main ledge, and it was worked that way on the first ascent. Bring extra slings and gear for supplementing the single bolt anchors on almost every rap anchor.
If approaching from below, scramble up ledges for a few hundred feet, to a 1 bolt belay on a ledge.
P1(5.9) Corner with some bushes and through a tree to a single bolt belay.
P2(5.12, ~30m) Tricky corner protected by a bolt and small gear. No 5” crack like the topo suggests. Three more bolts lead up and right.
P3(5.10+/11-, ~25m) Dirty dihedral with bolt and two pins in the blank sections. Traverse right at some flakes with caution so as not to knock the loose ones off.
P4(5.11, ~50m) One of the best pitches on the route. A finger crack leads to a triple roof section. 150' of 3-4" crack, including an 80' section of dead vertical 3.5" to poor stance. Nice to have a belay seat for the crux pitch.
P5(5.13-, ~30m) Bouldery start gets you to a bolt and crimpy traverse to long thin gradually widening crack in corner. Awesome.
P6(5.11-, ~20m) Steep jamming and a cool hanging feature leads to a great ledge shaded in the afternoon. Short pitch.
P7(5.10+/11-, ~50m) Hanging Death Dagger. Death daggers are spooky like it sounds but climbs really well. Very long pitch with some wide cracks, stemming, lie backing, and all-around jamming. Ends at biggest ledge on the route.
P8(5.11, ~35m) Traverse up and left with nice little pods for gear then head up an OW with a tough entry move.
P9(5.11, ~30m) Follow the corner up to a very techy undercling traverse with tiny gear.
P10(5.11, ~10m) Steep black corner. Best to link into P11 due to no bolt at top of corner like topo suggests making a ~60m pitch
P11(5.8, ~50m) Corner to tree anchor.
AAJ story:
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12201109200/Tehipite-Dome-Tehipite-Sanction
See additional photos in Rob Pizem's blog:
http://pizem.blogspot.com/2010/08/tehipite-climbing.html
http://pizem.blogspot.com/2010/11/california-summer-aka-tehipite-dome.html
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