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Another Mindless Crack
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in The Main Cliffs
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Another Mindless Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Beached Whale Impersonation T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bear Corners T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Green Corners T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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North Face Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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North Sneak T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Pillars of Frenzy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Swab The Deck S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Thin Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Walk The Plank T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Whales Leave The Lats At Home S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | FKA: GB and Anne Leibold, 10/15/83 |
| Page Views: | 568 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | George Bracksieck on Apr 12, 2020 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Raptor nesting lifted July 26, 2023
Details
Per Ryan Kuehn, Stewardship Director, Boulder Climbing Community: the seasonal raptor closure on the Third Flatiron will be extended beyond July 31st, 2023. The reopening date is TBD. This has been lifted as of 7/26/23 from the OSMP website per Zachary Henry.
bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Access Issue: Details
Details
Detailed closure information can be found by visiting OSMP's Interactive Wildlife Closure map at osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
Description
Start in an inset formed by a large, right-facing dihedral. Climb the dihedral (5.7) to another inset and to an optional belay at the base of the overhanging crack. Jam the four-inch crack (10c), climb over a large wedged block, and reach the top.
I led Anne Leibold up this on 10/15/83. The route was then undocumented, and we didn’t know what to expect. (It’s in recent guidebooks under this name; we didn’t name it.) We rappelled from slings that we found on top, although those might have been placed for descent after climbing up nearby routes.
Back in the day, before bolted anchors were placed atop most routes, getting down wasn’t convenient, and you had to scramble off or search nearby for something to hold a sling (rather than leave relatively expensive wedges or hexes). According to Rossiter’s 1999 guidebook, there’s now a two-bolt anchor.
I led Anne Leibold up this on 10/15/83. The route was then undocumented, and we didn’t know what to expect. (It’s in recent guidebooks under this name; we didn’t name it.) We rappelled from slings that we found on top, although those might have been placed for descent after climbing up nearby routes.
Back in the day, before bolted anchors were placed atop most routes, getting down wasn’t convenient, and you had to scramble off or search nearby for something to hold a sling (rather than leave relatively expensive wedges or hexes). According to Rossiter’s 1999 guidebook, there’s now a two-bolt anchor.
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