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Routes in Black Velvet Wall
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A Dream of Ultraviolet Unicorns T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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American Flesh Dance (Combination of The Flesh plus American Ghost Dance) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Cutting Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Dream of Wild Turkeys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Epinephrine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fiddler on the Roof T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fiddler Roof, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gobbler, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hybrid Drive T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Johnny Come Lately S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Jugs on Drugs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Malicious Mischief T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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My Little Pony T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Norepinephrine T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Old Fashioned T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Overhanging Hangover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Prince of Darkness T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Refried Brains T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rock Warrior T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Sandstone Samurai T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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Smooth as Silk T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Sour Mash T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sourpuss T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Spark Plug T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Steel Monkey T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Velveeta T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Yellow Brick Road T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Logan Dop, February 28th 2020 |
| Page Views: | 1,402 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Logan Dop on Apr 7, 2020 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description/Adventure
Long story short... I’m a jackass that should do a better job of reading topos before starting climbs of this size. Original plan was to link up the first two pitches of Sour Mash to get to the 2nd pitch belay stance. I then proceeded to climb a completely different two pitch linkup (not enough rope in the 70m, I DON'T RECOMMEND LINKNG), only to find myself pulling a roof that was hard 5.10, and not the 5.9 I should have been on. I was completely off route for the first two pitches of the intended climb.
Luckily, I was able to cleanly/safely finish a link up that went at low 5.11 to get back to the 2nd pitch belay stance. The main lesson I learned from this is to check your damn topo. Silver lining: I may have uncovered a beautiful two-pitch linkup to one of Black Velvets classics.
Currently, you will find a bush with a bunch of bail tat on it at the end of the first pitch (5.8). The second pitch takes you through the roof and has a spicy traverse left to finish the Sour Mash two pitch linkup(5.11a). I would love to have some consensus on this. You just gotta love some good ol' unplanned adventure!
Luckily, I was able to cleanly/safely finish a link up that went at low 5.11 to get back to the 2nd pitch belay stance. The main lesson I learned from this is to check your damn topo. Silver lining: I may have uncovered a beautiful two-pitch linkup to one of Black Velvets classics.
Currently, you will find a bush with a bunch of bail tat on it at the end of the first pitch (5.8). The second pitch takes you through the roof and has a spicy traverse left to finish the Sour Mash two pitch linkup(5.11a). I would love to have some consensus on this. You just gotta love some good ol' unplanned adventure!
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