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Routes in The Motherlode
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Cold Fever T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ground Beta T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Hidden Treasure T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Lost Dutchman, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pay Dirt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Prospector’s Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pyrite Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sonoran Gold T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Time to Change Your Soiled Overalls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wary Canary, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Woody Wampler’s Dusty Nuggets T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 390 ft (118 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | P1 Sam Foreman, P2 Scott Duemler, P3 & P4 Anna Von Der Marwitz, P3 var Scott Duemler aka The Swamp Donkeys - 3/2020 |
| Page Views: | 1,323 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Sam F on Mar 31, 2020 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Access Issue: PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS!
Details
Description
This route starts on a big ledge about 80’ up. To get there, scramble up a wide chimney system to the right then traverse back left to a two bolt anchor. The face / crack below can be TRed with two moves of 5.11+ then 5.6.
Note: These ratings are my opinion and are only a suggestion in relation to the pitches in this area.
P1: (5.10- ⭐️⭐️⭐️) “The Good Choss” - Climb up the splitter crack avoiding the first ledge on the left and continue following the crack rightwards to a bushy cave with a single bolt. Back up bolt with gear 125’.
P2: (5.6 PG13 ⭐️) Move the belay to the ledge up and left. Climb up the short corner then traverse right through chossy ramp with an interesting hour glass feature to two bolt anchor below twin cracks 80’.
P3: (5.11 ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️) “The Minecart” - A variety of techniques makes this pitch one of the best on the wall. Face climb up four bolts (5.11) then begin a mixture of face, lieback and twin crack climbing. Resting when you can helps, it’s fairly sustained in the 5.10 range. This pitch ends after a short slabby bit to a ledge with a high crack and solid gear. Hand size cams to belay. 85’
P4: (5.9+ ⭐️⭐️) Climb up corner and into crack near arete. Go up and over crack and continue around the right side of the mushroom shaped rock above. Climb the low angle slab / chimney behind the mushroom rock to the top. Belay with boulders on top. 100’
P2/3 variation: (5.9 ⭐️) To avoid the 5.11 finish, continue past the two bolt anchor marking the end of the traditional pitch two. At the end of the ledge is a big dihedral, climb up the big dihedral (5.9). There is another ledge halfway up the dihedral with a two bolt anchor. From there climb choss to the top (5.8). Belay on boulders on top.
Descent: Rappel the Lost Dutchman route. The raps start 50’ right of the top of P4. Look for the big cairn and easy down climb to the ledge below. Use the climber’s right side bolted anchor to begin the rap. Three single rope rappels to reach the ground.
The third (last) rappel will take you to a sloping ledge with a short, easy down-climb over an exposed section to get back to the ground. You can avoid the down scramble by rappelling from the top of pitch two of Lost Dutchman to the Squatter’s Ledge / top of WWDN (be careful this is a full 35M rap from the top of P2). Make sure to clip the rope into the extra carabiner at the top of the traditional P1 as a directional. Then rap from the top of WWDN to the ground. At the bottom of the raps, hike down the crag trail to your packs.
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