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The Wary Canary
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 2.7 from 3
votes
Routes in The Motherlode
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Cold Fever T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ground Beta T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Hidden Treasure T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Lost Dutchman, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pay Dirt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Prospector’s Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pyrite Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sonoran Gold T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Time to Change Your Soiled Overalls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wary Canary, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Woody Wampler’s Dusty Nuggets T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 275 ft (83 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | The Swamp Donkeys, 1/2020 |
| Page Views: | 671 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Sam F on Mar 30, 2020 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS!
Details
In the early '90's the USFS banned all placement of bolts in the Superstition Wilderness. This unfortunately includes replacement of existing bolts. Violating this ban may result in climbing restrictions on this beautiful area. Please think twice and go bolt somewhere else.
Description
Note: These ratings are my opinion and are only a suggestion in relation to the pitches in this area.
P1: (5.9 ⭐️⭐️) Begin by either climbing a neat little finger crack on the left side of the boulder below the slab, or scramble up to the top of the boulder. Then climb the easy slab into the fun corner above. Belay on a nice ledge up and right with two bolts. This rappel anchor is shared with the first pitch of Hidden Treasure. 90’P2: (5.9+ ⭐️⭐️⭐️) Step left into the intermittent crack. Place a couple of good cams and then face climb through the short crux (5.9+) as the crack pinches down to a seam. When the crack reappears, a cool staircase feature will trend up and left to a sloping ledge above. Belay on the ledge with gear, one 3” cam and a couple of nuts. 105’
P3: (5.9- ⭐️⭐️ ) Face climb on interesting cemented knobs while placing tricky gear in the intermittent finger crack. Above, the crack opens up and the cliff angle decreases before a final short steep chimney / offwidth. On top, build a belay using the boulders on the grassy ledge. 80’
Descent: Rappel the Lost Dutchman route. The raps start 75’ left of the top of P3. Look for the big cairn and easy down climb to the ledge below. Use the climber’s right side bolted anchor to begin the raps. Three single rope rappels to the ground.
The third (last) rappel will take you to a sloping ledge with a short, easy down-climb over an exposed section to get back to the ground. You can avoid the down scramble by rappelling from the top of pitch two of Lost Dutchman to the Squatter’s Ledge / top of WWDN (be careful this is a full 35M rap from the top of P2). Make sure to clip the rope into the extra carabiner at the top of the traditional P1 as a directional. Then rap from the top of WWDN to the ground.
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