Type: | Ice, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 7 pitches |
FA: | Scott Coldiron, Matt Cornell - 2018 |
Page Views: | 983 total · 16/month |
Shared By: | Marlin Thorman on Mar 16, 2020 |
Admins: | GRK, Zach Wahrer |
Description
The upper WI5+ pitch only comes in once every 5 years or so. However the corner just right of the face comes in every year and keeps the grade at a moderate WI4. It is likely that most parties will climb it as a WI4 even though the original FA included a WI5+ pitch.
This is the sister to the classic Road Warrior. Mad Max is equally as long, but with little or no rock. The upper pitches stick out as the biggest ice feature on the entire Thunderdome. The climbing starts with 3 pitches of easier ice with a few fun steps (or a long simul-block). These pitches can include some snow wallowing in deeper snow but mostly it is short ice steps. Once above the lower angle terrain, pitch 4 starts up steep ice in the corner. This pitch often has a move or two of mixed climbing near the top and a .75 or #1 can protect the topout. Continue up the snow slope to the ice above. Here is a junction with Mad Max going up the thin ice on the left and Fury Road taken the ice in the corner on the right. The thin ice is typically thick enough for thoughful placements of 13cm or even 16cm screws and is nearly a full rope length to easier terrain above. Pitch 6 is easy rolling ice or possibly some mixed terrain to either the base of the corner (WI4) or face (WI5+). One long pitch will take you up either feature to the top. Most years the corner will be in and climbed that way this is the best moderate WI4 around.
Location
Protection
A full set of screws. Cams are useful for some of the lower pitches or for setting beleys in thin conditions,
Descent
From the top of the route rappel from either a V-thread or tree to the ledge at the base of the face/corner. Walk this ledge (between the face and the large boulder) skier's right for 50 feet to a set of trees. There should be an established rap cord on the tree. From here rap skiers right down to the ice of Road Warrior. Once on the ice it is another 3 or 4 v-thread rappels to reach the bottom.
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