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Home of the Brave
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British R
Avg: 4 from 1
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Routes in Lakeview Area
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Black Dome Dementia T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Boot Hill T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Edgestacy T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Girly Mon Direct T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Guppies with a twist T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Home of the Brave T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Lakeview T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Left Unlocked T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X |
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Radical Left, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Squeeze Job T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Unknown (aka Stephen David's Underpants) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Zinnea's Zen T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 230 ft (70 m) |
| FA: | Bruce Burgess, Andy Kluge, Pascal Robert 1998 |
| Page Views: | 636 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Bruce Burgess on Mar 13, 2020 |
| Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags
Details
The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
A stout and amazing 2 pitch journey up the middle of the Lakeview wall that will reward you with some of the finest sustained steep slab and face climbing at the Bald. The start is the same as for Boot Hill and if climbed as we did originally is the only true R part of the first pitch. Sling the healthy Chestnut Oak very high and cast of on the delicate and committing 5.9+ right rising traverse up to a gear slot 8 feet below the first bolt. This runout could be avoided with a very tall stick clip, but I have not tried it. The rest is PG 13. Tiny crystal edges and high steps get you past the 2nd bolt and up to a bomber cam slot (multiple gear options here). Climb past another techy move at the 3rd bolt (extend the draw after you've done the move) to another good horizontal for pro. After that it’s all bolts as the face gradually steepens and climbing becomes more difficult. Things really kick in at the 6th bolt. Reach big, crimp, high step and embrace the texture past multiple 5.11+ cruxes broken up by a few tenuous stances. One final bouldery crux at the last bolt gets you to hero jugs just below the belay. If lowering, a 70m rope will get you back to the tree ledge but maybe not to the ground proper. Watch your ends.
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