Throckmorton

This route starts with an approach pitch on Small Flow (right). We set an anchor (at the top of the ice) with a couple of screws; however, a couple of large cams would do too.  We used this anchor, as we thought it wise for the belayer of Throckmorton to have eyes on the climber. You could do it all in one pitch.

Throckmorton follows the  leftward-leaning crack which starts just to the left of the scrappy M5/6 mixed line (that goes straight up). Ample gear protects the bouldery start that ends in a pick lock. Keep cutting left along ledges and then into some creative toolbars. There were just enough small ledges for crampons to confidently set bomber cams  Continuing in crack takes you to the final dagger. Belay in the trees above.

I thought that the route might be M8-, because setting gear in the crack took some effort; however, I would say that no single move makes it harder than M7+. I look forward to hearing what other people think.

The route begins at the top of the ice portion of Small Flow (right).

0.3-#2 BD Camalots for the actual route (a second #1 would have been nice). You might want a screw for the final ice, if ice is your nemesis. Also remember either larger cams for the belay at the top of Small Flow (right) or a couple of ice screws.