Type: Trad, 215 ft (65 m), 2 pitches
FA: Zach Harrison and Trevor Bowman 1/1/20
Page Views: 544 total · 9/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Mar 11, 2020
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A bipolar route. Half loafy Schneb-slab, half fun steep crack. Sunny for those cooler days and a cool perspective on the Oak Creek Spire area. On the FA day, cattle ran amok in the canyon.

P1--The crux is the mini-corner past the 1st bolt with some aggressive reaching. Commence slab wandering up and right and drift back left. End at edge of mega terrace. There are still the obligatory Schnebly crispy bits throughout, but anything big was removed. Bolts and a #3. (.10+ PG13, 100')

Intermission jaunt up mega-terrace to the left, over sand, block and bush to the base of the 2nd pitch splitter.

P2--Why you came...the rad disjointed splitter that can be seen from afar. Tips start, progressively widening through the sizes to finish on cupped hands. There are face features, stance shelves, and some awkward mantles throughout, but this is a pretty cool crack pitch that climbs surprisingly steeply and is on generally great top-shelf Schnebly. Much cleaning was done, so enjoy! (.11-, 115')

Location Suggest change

Refer to the area page for directions to the base. Rap the route with one 70m rope. 

Protection Suggest change

Bolts on P1 and one #3.
In BD C4 sizes:
(2X) red C3-.5
(3X) .75-#2
(1X) #3
slings, draws
(1X) 70m rope

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