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John Burcham Spire
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in Mormon Canyon
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Backslider T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Nameless Tower - Jacob's Ladder, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Top Shelf Spire T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tim Toula Spire T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Hot Hookers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Plural Pleasures T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Mormon Mission T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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John Burcham Spire T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Rich and Famous Towers T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Holy Sin T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Latter-Day Sands T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Drinking Kool-Aid T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Full Contact Origami T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Faith In The Stone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Ambulance Ride T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Spirit Compass T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Devil Isn’t Red, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Made In The Shade T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Directions from a Moroni T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Kicked out of Heaven T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Touched By An Angel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Earth Angel T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Damn Yellow Rope! C1-2 |
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Goliath T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Starlord T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Scrotum Pole T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Duck for Cover T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Fin - South Ramp, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Blake McCord, Trevor Bowman, Zach Harrison 2/21/20 |
| Page Views: | 842 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Trevor Bowman on Mar 11, 2020 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Prime real estate summit in the way-back of Mormon Canyon that combines an aesthetic feature with quality climbing--something of a rarity for the usual Mormon Canyon summit outing.
P1--Beautiful widening splitter crack with a stemming start; baggy fingers widens to hands, before pinching back down to the top of the pillar that this crack forms. A great crack, but don't inspect the foundation of this somewhat spooky pillar too close or jam too hard on your way up. From the ledge at the top of the crack, clip a bolt and step left into a blocky chimney system that leads easily to a cool corridor in the notch between the upper spire and the wall behind. There is some looseness on this stretch, but it's pretty easy to climb around. 2-bolt anchor on the wall to the left of the corridor. (.10, 110')
P2--Wide stemming out of the corridor to a ledge, then up to a 2nd ledge with a bolt, then launch up the face above past two more bolts and over a punchy little roof. Continue straight up the crack/weakness above with incipient gear, eventually leading to a shallow left-facing corner with a 4th and final bolt protecting a rad big move. Air it out on great jugs to the top. (.11-, 90')
Enjoy the Burcham approved summit lounge and contemplate the wonders of his creations.
P1--Beautiful widening splitter crack with a stemming start; baggy fingers widens to hands, before pinching back down to the top of the pillar that this crack forms. A great crack, but don't inspect the foundation of this somewhat spooky pillar too close or jam too hard on your way up. From the ledge at the top of the crack, clip a bolt and step left into a blocky chimney system that leads easily to a cool corridor in the notch between the upper spire and the wall behind. There is some looseness on this stretch, but it's pretty easy to climb around. 2-bolt anchor on the wall to the left of the corridor. (.10, 110')
P2--Wide stemming out of the corridor to a ledge, then up to a 2nd ledge with a bolt, then launch up the face above past two more bolts and over a punchy little roof. Continue straight up the crack/weakness above with incipient gear, eventually leading to a shallow left-facing corner with a 4th and final bolt protecting a rad big move. Air it out on great jugs to the top. (.11-, 90')
Enjoy the Burcham approved summit lounge and contemplate the wonders of his creations.
Location
Hike a long way...
Hike up Mormon Canyon to its end at a dry waterfall. Take the last exit left through brush to a slab. Up right, over limestone band to more brush. At the slab, solo up to a bolt, crank a move then hike up right (.5 c4 protects the follower from pendulum of the year), to an anchor. Follow bowl up, at its top move right on slabs to the base of the wall. 2HR. 5.10+.
Hike up Mormon Canyon to its end at a dry waterfall. Take the last exit left through brush to a slab. Up right, over limestone band to more brush. At the slab, solo up to a bolt, crank a move then hike up right (.5 c4 protects the follower from pendulum of the year), to an anchor. Follow bowl up, at its top move right on slabs to the base of the wall. 2HR. 5.10+.
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