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Routes in 01. Sandstonia
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5.5 My Ass S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Assman S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Badass Tattoo S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Barb Wire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bass Ackwards S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Beef Boy Field Trip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bikini Line S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bobby D'Bunny S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Booby Prize S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Butterfly Flake S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Celtic Sun S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Centennial S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Clean Shaved S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Cool Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crescendo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Decameron, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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G-String S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Geisha Girl S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Good Book, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hardcore Female Rash S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hepatitis C S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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ISO 9000 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Jaws of Life S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Kinesthetica S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Layback and Enjoy It S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lord of the Jungle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mike Tyson's Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mrs. Field's Follies S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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One Repetition Max S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pay It Forward S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Plumber's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pure Power S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Shady Lady S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Weisenheimer Brainstorm S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Witches of Bangor S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Zeitgeist S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | Jon & David Eichenburger 1987 |
| Page Views: | 1,279 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | E.G. Lunceford on Mar 9, 2020 |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
This route starts 20 feet right of the chimney (which is the start for Decameron), behind the tree.
Your first good gear is at a short splitter crack. Back up your first piece because you’re about to run it out a little ways. Gently trend up and right until you find a horizontal crack. Continue up until you reach the ledge. Off of the ledge begins finger/hand crack with rounded out edges, flares and pods. You’ll want stoppers, small cams, and a #3 BD Camalot.
At the top of the splitter crack is a devious roof which I found to be the crux of the route.
Rest and get ready to pull up over the second roof on good jugs.
Exit the last small roof on lichen covered holds and amble up blocky, 5th class terrain until you top out on the cliff rim.
Descent: I didn’t have enough rope to rap the route with a 60m. Ideally you would bring your partner up in reverse and then you could carefully Walk climbers left (skiers right) to the top of the Decameron and rap down to the ledge where Decameron tops out. From here you can pull your rope and comfortably rap down from a slung tree.
A simple alternative would be to tag another rope up with you, sling a pine tree and double rope rap.
Your first good gear is at a short splitter crack. Back up your first piece because you’re about to run it out a little ways. Gently trend up and right until you find a horizontal crack. Continue up until you reach the ledge. Off of the ledge begins finger/hand crack with rounded out edges, flares and pods. You’ll want stoppers, small cams, and a #3 BD Camalot.
At the top of the splitter crack is a devious roof which I found to be the crux of the route.
Rest and get ready to pull up over the second roof on good jugs.
Exit the last small roof on lichen covered holds and amble up blocky, 5th class terrain until you top out on the cliff rim.
Descent: I didn’t have enough rope to rap the route with a 60m. Ideally you would bring your partner up in reverse and then you could carefully Walk climbers left (skiers right) to the top of the Decameron and rap down to the ledge where Decameron tops out. From here you can pull your rope and comfortably rap down from a slung tree.
A simple alternative would be to tag another rope up with you, sling a pine tree and double rope rap.
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