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Routes in Castle Mountain
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Brewer Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Lookout Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Moat, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Silverton Falls WI3 |
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South East Face of Eisenhower Tower T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Ultra-Brewers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Ice, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,104 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Luka Bogdanovic on Mar 3, 2020 |
| Admins: | Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose, Rhys Beaudry |
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Description
Silverton Falls is a named and signed falls that sees very little traffic in the winter. With a high water flow the canyon containing it often sports deep open pools and thin delaminated ice.
Best attempted during a cold snap where the pools may freeze up, this climb is not for an inexperienced leader despite the easy climbing. It is hard to protect and you can easily punch through the ice in places. That aside, it is a fun an easy half day adventure with minimal approach.
From the canyon mouth climb up a series of small snow/ice steps until the first step of steeper ice. Continue up more steps until reaching the two main tiers of the falls. Both tiers can be done in one 70 meter pitch ending at a tree belay on the left with a tree that has a rectangle carved into its bark.
Note that you can bypass the lower half of the falls if the pools are open and impassable by following the tourist trail to the falls viewpoint and scrambling down to the base of the final two tiers.
From the belay tree walk up and left to a steep walk off down back to the tourist trail.
Best attempted during a cold snap where the pools may freeze up, this climb is not for an inexperienced leader despite the easy climbing. It is hard to protect and you can easily punch through the ice in places. That aside, it is a fun an easy half day adventure with minimal approach.
From the canyon mouth climb up a series of small snow/ice steps until the first step of steeper ice. Continue up more steps until reaching the two main tiers of the falls. Both tiers can be done in one 70 meter pitch ending at a tree belay on the left with a tree that has a rectangle carved into its bark.
Note that you can bypass the lower half of the falls if the pools are open and impassable by following the tourist trail to the falls viewpoint and scrambling down to the base of the final two tiers.
From the belay tree walk up and left to a steep walk off down back to the tourist trail.
Location
Park at Rockbound Lake Trail parking, and follow the signs for Silverton Falls for 700m. If you want to climb the lower pitches continue over the wooden barricade right before the switchbacks in the trail start and follow the creek to the canyon, otherwise follow the switchbacks to the viewpoint for the last two pitches.
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