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> 14. Los Lagos (…
> Valle Cochamó
> Anfiteatro
> Paciencia
Al Lado del Corazón
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
Routes in Paciencia
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Al Lado del Corazón T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Iron Skirt T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Onomatopeya T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Path of Righteousness T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Surfing For Stone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sweet and Bitter Fruit T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 1200 ft (364 m), 10 pitches |
| FA: | Logan Fasso, Oliver Abbitt, Jordan Collins, February 2015 |
| Page Views: | 673 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Dan Flynn on Mar 1, 2020 |
| Admins: | Eric Och, Alex R, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Description
Good climbing on slab and crack, with some some scrappy adventure climbing as well. I climbed up to P7 in 2019, please add a comment or page improvement if you have additional details to share.
The description here differs from the topo, following three new pitches bolted up the slab, rather than the original line that comes in from left to right.
P1
5.11 Slab. Follow the bolts, try not to fall. Safe enough, hard enough. 12 bolts (can supplement bolts with green C3 and #2 on small runouts low down)
P2
5.10 Slab. Same deal, more perfect granite slab, 10 bolts.
P3
5.10 Guess what more slab?! 9 bolts.
P4
La Fissura Secreta! Hilariously fun crack between two huge slabs, with water running down the bottom of the crack. 5.9 ish. Place your cams just above, or possibly in, the running water. Still bomber placements.
P5
5.10 I think, adventure up and left through some cracks to the Lunch Ledge.
P6
“Tree-a-ferratta”, I think now cleaned of vegetation on the vertical part. 5.10 go through the forest and pull some moves straight up a crack.
P7
5.11+ White Tree of Gondor. A bolt protects the one hard move, then straight up through some sweet cracks, staying left to belay under the white tree snag.
We did not continue, but headwall looks cool.
P8
“The Box”?
P9
Crack up and right
P10
Headwall splitter, 5.12-?
The description here differs from the topo, following three new pitches bolted up the slab, rather than the original line that comes in from left to right.
P1
5.11 Slab. Follow the bolts, try not to fall. Safe enough, hard enough. 12 bolts (can supplement bolts with green C3 and #2 on small runouts low down)
P2
5.10 Slab. Same deal, more perfect granite slab, 10 bolts.
P3
5.10 Guess what more slab?! 9 bolts.
P4
La Fissura Secreta! Hilariously fun crack between two huge slabs, with water running down the bottom of the crack. 5.9 ish. Place your cams just above, or possibly in, the running water. Still bomber placements.
P5
5.10 I think, adventure up and left through some cracks to the Lunch Ledge.
P6
“Tree-a-ferratta”, I think now cleaned of vegetation on the vertical part. 5.10 go through the forest and pull some moves straight up a crack.
P7
5.11+ White Tree of Gondor. A bolt protects the one hard move, then straight up through some sweet cracks, staying left to belay under the white tree snag.
We did not continue, but headwall looks cool.
P8
“The Box”?
P9
Crack up and right
P10
Headwall splitter, 5.12-?
Location
This is the first climb you arrive at in the Pared Paciencia. As you are walking up the Anfi trail, head left at the flat, sandy spot before arriving at the bivy (by 20 min or so). You’ll end up at a mini laguna, and Al Lado del Corazón starts immediately right up the slab. The first bolt is up maybe 10 m, but easy climbing gets you there.
Protection
Bunch of bolts in first 3 pitches, then standard rack.
Up to pitch 7 is single rack to #2 and 12 draws/runners. The topo suggests doubles to #2 single #3 and #4, offset finger cams, and rps if doing the whole route.
Up to pitch 7 is single rack to #2 and 12 draws/runners. The topo suggests doubles to #2 single #3 and #4, offset finger cams, and rps if doing the whole route.
Descent
60 m doubles required to get down.
To get down: the first 3 pitches are easily rappelable on bomber fixe rings. Pitch 4 and 5 have bare bolt hangers with no tat (bringing fixe rings to replace hangers would make these easily rappelable). Pitch 6 has bomber rings. Don't rappel down the obvious straight line down from pitch 6. The anchor you are looking for is about 30 meters down climbers left.
Additional info from FA:
If you rap down and climbers left 35m from the anchors just after the cafe verde Forest [pitch 6], you should find a two bolt anchor. It would have been directly down from the anchors of the next pitch, just below the roof Crux I call "the box".
Bring tat for the top anchor. It's a rope stretching 60m, 6 raps top to bottom. The only anchor I would change would be on the direct line down, the biggest ledge with the anchor right in the middle of a waterfall. If you brought those to where your feet are, the route would likely be doable with 58m ropes or so. This would be the second to last rappel before the ground.
Most of the hangers were stripped off the original route we took, so if you are feeling adventurous [to climb the original start], BYO hangers and nuts.
To get down: the first 3 pitches are easily rappelable on bomber fixe rings. Pitch 4 and 5 have bare bolt hangers with no tat (bringing fixe rings to replace hangers would make these easily rappelable). Pitch 6 has bomber rings. Don't rappel down the obvious straight line down from pitch 6. The anchor you are looking for is about 30 meters down climbers left.
Additional info from FA:
If you rap down and climbers left 35m from the anchors just after the cafe verde Forest [pitch 6], you should find a two bolt anchor. It would have been directly down from the anchors of the next pitch, just below the roof Crux I call "the box".
Bring tat for the top anchor. It's a rope stretching 60m, 6 raps top to bottom. The only anchor I would change would be on the direct line down, the biggest ledge with the anchor right in the middle of a waterfall. If you brought those to where your feet are, the route would likely be doable with 58m ropes or so. This would be the second to last rappel before the ground.
Most of the hangers were stripped off the original route we took, so if you are feeling adventurous [to climb the original start], BYO hangers and nuts.
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