Charmin Tube

This route was apparently long a secret stash, but that is certainly no longer the case. The local guides used to run a train on it most days, and we were often the only unguided party. That's a shame, because this is a fantastic, reliable route in a gorgeous setting, and it deserves to be climbed more by unmonetized parties.

As it is, get there early or queue up. Either way, prepare for a social day.

P1 - 190', WI4. A jaw-dropping pitch of ice, absolutely classic. It can fatten up to WI3 by the easiest line, but if it's healed you may want to be a solid WI4 leader. The topout is the crux. In super lean years you can tunnel under the chockstone. There is a two-bolt anchor with chains on the right above the chockstone.

It is not recommended to stand or belay on the left side at the base, especially if there are parties climbing. Falling ice tends to land square on that position, to say nothing of the random rockfall as the canyon walls heat up.

P2 - 30', WI2-3. Most often, wallow up snow along the creek to where some ice spills in from the right. Climb this or bypass it via a snow ramp on the left to reach a large platform with a pool and a short ice flow (sometimes thin and funky) to access the upper pitch. There is a two-bolt anchor with rap rings on the left just above.

With low snow, there can be several short steps of easy ice to climb en route to this short pitch. If you reach an insurmountable choss pile, you missed the right turn.

P3 - 160', WI3-4. Another classic pitch, though sometimes sun-affected and as such wildly variable in formation. Usually easier on the left and chandeliered on the right. At the top it lays back to a tree anchor on the right.

To descend:

Rap 50m from the tree atop P3.

Rap 20m from the rings (descender's right) or downclimb P2 to the platform.

Rap 30m from a tree (descender's left, look for tat) or walk around/downclimb the snow/ice below the platform. You can usually skip this rap with doubles from the rings above P2.

The last low-angle section can almost always be hiked/downclimbed, but in low snow you can rap 15m from bolts (low on descender's left) that are typically buried. Continue down to the chains atop P1.

Rap 60m to the ground.

This climb is located in Cascade Creek, above the rarely-formed Cascade Falls. Nelson's Suffer Candy: Volume 1 (go buy it!) calls it pitches 4 - 6. It may be reached via Cascade Falls, but most parties will start at the amphitheater gate (38.0179, -107.6654).

Hike up the amphitheater road 0.5 miles. Just before the first switchback, leave the road and continue on the normally obvious trail (38.0244, -107.6626). Climb briefly, then stay left where the trail forks. If no trail, look for a 10' tall stump or just keep wandering NE towards the cliff band. Pass through a sneak in the cliff band and continue up several switchbacks above. At 8700', contour into Cascade Creek to access the climb (38.0270, -107.6621).

You're welcome.

Gear: helmet (rockfall), 7-10 ice screws, 2x 60m ropes, and anchor material.