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| Type: | Ice, Snow, Alpine, 12104 ft (3668 m), 3 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Annie S. Peck 1904 and 1906, as well as completing the route to the Norte summit in 1908 |
| Page Views: | 866 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Brian in SLC on Jan 26, 2020 |
| Admins: | Tony Yeary, MAKB |
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Description
The Normal Route up Huascarán is by far the most popular gig for attaining either of the summits (Norte and/or Sur).
First ascended in bits and pieces by feminist Annie S. Peck and her various entourage in 1904 and 1906, as well as completing the route to the Norte summit in 1908. If at first you don’t succeed…
Route difficulty varies on year-to-year conditions and route taken but generally considered to be PD+/AD-. Which translates to some technical climbing and complicated glacier terrain with steep snow and ice slopes over 50 degrees in steepness, some possibly sustained. At altitude. Whilst carrying a pack encumbered with full camping kit. Good times.
Commonly done in 3 to 4 camps.
From the town of Musho at 3100m, hike to a basecamp at 4200m following a mule path, hopefully with your stuff on said mule. Fairly direct route toward and slightly left of the lowest ice below the twin summits.
Some folks skip basecamp and jog up to the moraine camp (4800m) closer to the edge of the glacier. Others less acclimated would benefit from pulling into this camp location. The route from basecamp to the moraine camp is well cairned and travelled. The camp sets kind of below the climber’s right edge of the west face “shield”. Some folks also skip this camp preferring to hit the glacier camp directly from basecamp.
(Another approach option to the moraine camp area would be to hike into the Refuge Don Bosco Huascarán. This refugio has beds for 60 and a restaurant and toilets).
From the moraine camp, follow a cairned route up to the edge of the glacier. Camp Uno can be had after crossing the dry-ish glacier and arriving at a large flat area at around 5300 to 5400m which is also under the west face.
The journey to Camp Dos is a spicy jaunt with exposure to avalanche terrain, varying fun with whacky icefall, large crevasses and a sometimes difficult steep sections where some ice climbing skills will come in handy. For many folks, this will be the technical crux of the route. The route is generally traversed below and past the west face “shield” in a rising traverse towards the big col. Arrive at a camp at near 6000m just below the throat between the two summits: La Garganta. Take care in camp location choice as this area can be avalanche prone.
From the final camp, a route up either peak follows the path of least resistance upwards.
For Huascarán Norte, cross a ‘schrund and climb the south slopes via the most reasonable looking line. Hit the summit ridge and carry on to glory.
Ascend to the summit of Huascarán Sur by ascending to and crossing the flat col to the North Slopes, again, easiest path. After some initial steepness, milk lower angle terrain to the summit. Take care with any crevasses enroute.
Descent: reverse the route of ascent.
Probably the biggest watch out on this high peak is the elevation. Be well schooled and able to identify and deal with the higher elevation. Most folks do a healthy warm up climb or hike gaining valuable acclimatization prior to attempting this climb. Another couple of hazards are the large, yawning crevasses and sometimes active serac fall areas. Avalanches are another possibility to consider and it’s prudent to limit time in any runout zone. Wind, cold temperatures and whiteout weather limiting visibility on especially descents from the summit would be additional hazards.
First ascended in bits and pieces by feminist Annie S. Peck and her various entourage in 1904 and 1906, as well as completing the route to the Norte summit in 1908. If at first you don’t succeed…
Route difficulty varies on year-to-year conditions and route taken but generally considered to be PD+/AD-. Which translates to some technical climbing and complicated glacier terrain with steep snow and ice slopes over 50 degrees in steepness, some possibly sustained. At altitude. Whilst carrying a pack encumbered with full camping kit. Good times.
Commonly done in 3 to 4 camps.
From the town of Musho at 3100m, hike to a basecamp at 4200m following a mule path, hopefully with your stuff on said mule. Fairly direct route toward and slightly left of the lowest ice below the twin summits.
Some folks skip basecamp and jog up to the moraine camp (4800m) closer to the edge of the glacier. Others less acclimated would benefit from pulling into this camp location. The route from basecamp to the moraine camp is well cairned and travelled. The camp sets kind of below the climber’s right edge of the west face “shield”. Some folks also skip this camp preferring to hit the glacier camp directly from basecamp.
(Another approach option to the moraine camp area would be to hike into the Refuge Don Bosco Huascarán. This refugio has beds for 60 and a restaurant and toilets).
From the moraine camp, follow a cairned route up to the edge of the glacier. Camp Uno can be had after crossing the dry-ish glacier and arriving at a large flat area at around 5300 to 5400m which is also under the west face.
The journey to Camp Dos is a spicy jaunt with exposure to avalanche terrain, varying fun with whacky icefall, large crevasses and a sometimes difficult steep sections where some ice climbing skills will come in handy. For many folks, this will be the technical crux of the route. The route is generally traversed below and past the west face “shield” in a rising traverse towards the big col. Arrive at a camp at near 6000m just below the throat between the two summits: La Garganta. Take care in camp location choice as this area can be avalanche prone.
From the final camp, a route up either peak follows the path of least resistance upwards.
For Huascarán Norte, cross a ‘schrund and climb the south slopes via the most reasonable looking line. Hit the summit ridge and carry on to glory.
Ascend to the summit of Huascarán Sur by ascending to and crossing the flat col to the North Slopes, again, easiest path. After some initial steepness, milk lower angle terrain to the summit. Take care with any crevasses enroute.
Descent: reverse the route of ascent.
Probably the biggest watch out on this high peak is the elevation. Be well schooled and able to identify and deal with the higher elevation. Most folks do a healthy warm up climb or hike gaining valuable acclimatization prior to attempting this climb. Another couple of hazards are the large, yawning crevasses and sometimes active serac fall areas. Avalanches are another possibility to consider and it’s prudent to limit time in any runout zone. Wind, cold temperatures and whiteout weather limiting visibility on especially descents from the summit would be additional hazards.
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