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Routes in Seal Rock
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Archaeopteryx T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X |
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Bella for the Winnie S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Choose Life S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Choose Muscle S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a PG13 |
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Ciao Bella (pitch 1) aka Pit of Despair S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Ciao Bella (pitch 2), aka Pit of Despair S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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East Face North Side/Seal Rock T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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East Face South Side T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Flute, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Gruffalo, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hinge, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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I Am The Walrus S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Jade Gate S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Love Wins S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Misbehaven T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Nattiq S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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No Philter S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Perfect Storm, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Primate S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Sea Bird T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Sea of Joy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Shortcut (East Face) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Southwest Face T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Stoop, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Storm Bird T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Super Tuscan S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Supercell S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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Thunder Muscle S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Yellow Door, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Phil Gruber and Stephen Felker, July 2019 |
| Page Views: | 1,250 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Stephen Felker on Jan 23, 2020 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
Envisioned by Phil Gruber, this route takes you on an enjoyable journey up the middle of the steep north face. It links three existing routes and climbs a good bit of fun new terrain, without the addition of fixed protection. The climbing is steep and exposed, but the crux moves are reasonably protected. All pitches have fixed anchors, which were updated as a part of establishing this route (in accordance with OSMP permit requirements).
P1: From the ramp on the right, climb to the third bolt on Sea of Joy and clip a long sling. Head right on moderate black rock past micro-wires and then up flakes to a reachy move up and right. Pass a small dihedral and get established below the overlap. Head up and right over the roof and continue to join Archaeopteryx for the final moves to the anchor on the ledge below the overhanging dihedral. This pitch is fun and is equipped to make it easy to climb on its own, 5.10+ PG-13.
P2: Move up and right off of the anchors; then make an awkward move to get established in the undercling. Climb the wild crack left through the roof on tenuous feet. Step left to the anchor at an exposed stance on a block. This is the second pitch of Archaeopteryx (and is stiff for the grade), 5.11b PG-13.
P3: Step right from the anchor, and follow the steep, blocky dike up and right on positive holds. Move right around the bulge, past an obvious #3 placement, and clip the bolt long. Make a couple of moves on devious holds, and follow the last few bolts on The Perfect Storm to the anchor, 5.12- PG-13.
Descent: From the top of pitch three straight to the ground is 60 meters- double rope rappel. It is also possible to top out and descend via the standard rappel from the summit of Seal Rock. (Hint: you can descend Sea of Joy with one 70m and The Hinge/The Stoop with one 60m rope.)
P1: From the ramp on the right, climb to the third bolt on Sea of Joy and clip a long sling. Head right on moderate black rock past micro-wires and then up flakes to a reachy move up and right. Pass a small dihedral and get established below the overlap. Head up and right over the roof and continue to join Archaeopteryx for the final moves to the anchor on the ledge below the overhanging dihedral. This pitch is fun and is equipped to make it easy to climb on its own, 5.10+ PG-13.
P2: Move up and right off of the anchors; then make an awkward move to get established in the undercling. Climb the wild crack left through the roof on tenuous feet. Step left to the anchor at an exposed stance on a block. This is the second pitch of Archaeopteryx (and is stiff for the grade), 5.11b PG-13.
P3: Step right from the anchor, and follow the steep, blocky dike up and right on positive holds. Move right around the bulge, past an obvious #3 placement, and clip the bolt long. Make a couple of moves on devious holds, and follow the last few bolts on The Perfect Storm to the anchor, 5.12- PG-13.
Descent: From the top of pitch three straight to the ground is 60 meters- double rope rappel. It is also possible to top out and descend via the standard rappel from the summit of Seal Rock. (Hint: you can descend Sea of Joy with one 70m and The Hinge/The Stoop with one 60m rope.)
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