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Broken Dreams
5.11d,
Sport, 65 ft (20 m),
Avg: 3.5 from 6
votes
FA: Ian Kirk, Jordan Katz
Ohio
> Central Ohio
> Marne Rd
> E Poison Ivy Wall ("T…
Access Issue: Private Property
Details
The right (east) side, all roped climbing, is owned by Village of Hanover, which seems ambivalent to climbing. Left side, bouldering, is private property, but the owner has not had a problem with climbing SO FAR. Continued access is far from guaranteed! Rapidly growing crag traffic has become a potential issue.
On the bouldering (west) side, please do not hang out up top or go exploring above the main cliff line. It is private property and we need to keep a low profile. The owner has been hands off so far. Let's try to ensure things stay that way please. Hanging out up top could cause problems with the property owner.
Please do not climb above the roped climbs. Hanging out on the edge of the cliff without ropes is dangerous and the last thing we want is to have an ambulance/injury/fatality there. Please don't endanger crag access through short-sighted behavior!
Please be upstanders and take good care of the crag to help preserve access. Don't leave your trash, and even pack out any trash somebody else might have left behind.
Description
Start in the cave with an exciting and steep start to get things going. Continue past the steep stuff to more moderate vert terrain. Pull a move to gain the slab face and continue to more vert terrain. High clip the last bolt if you can and launch into the crux that will test your reach or lock off strength. If you fall, join the list of people with broken dreams of sending. Grade probably height dependent.
Usually stays pretty dry year-round.
Location
Starts in steep section on far left side of the cave.
Protection
10 bolts + anchors. Stick clip the first and make sure your belayer is ready to pull in slack as you dyno near the start. If the belayer is much lighter, it might be a good idea to anchor them to the nearby tree if you are uncertain of your dynoing abilities.
![Broken Dreams and Wet Dreams. Prepare to be embarrassed either way.]()
[Hide Photo] Broken Dreams and Wet Dreams. Prepare to be embarrassed either way.
![Rob Brock trying to keep his dreams intact on "Broken Dreams." Photo taken by, and posted with permission from, Danielle Pipes.]()
[Hide Photo] Rob Brock trying to keep his dreams intact on "Broken Dreams." Photo taken by, and posted with permission from, Danielle Pipes.
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Ohio
Worth noting: when pulling the rope, it can get stuck if you don't give the rope a good flick. There are some large holds on the bulge above the initial roof where the rope can get hooked. Jan 14, 2020
Columbus