Type: Snow, Alpine, 9055 ft (2744 m), Grade VI
FA: unknown
Page Views: 540 total · 8/month
Shared By: Braden Batsford on Jan 13, 2020
Admins: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

An "easy", more scenic, less crowded alternative to the "Normal" route. This route is the second most popular route up the mountain, and has easy to follow tracks leading to each camp. There are lots of companies offering guided climbs via this route. 

Reach Plaza Argentina via the three day approach hike up the Vacas Valley.

From Plaza Argentina, ascend via three high camps to the summit.

From the summit, descend back to Camp 3 (Camp Colera), then descend down the "Normal" route to Plaza De Mulas. Take the Honcones Trail back out.

Plaza Argentina Approach Suggest change

Start at the Vacas Valley trailhead. Be sure to have your permit stamped by the Park Rangers at the trailhead.
The approach to Plaza Argentina is usually done over three days:

Day 1: Vacas Valley Trailhead - Pampa De Lenas
Day 2: Pampa De Lenas - Casa de Piedra
Day 3: Casa De Piedra - Plaza Argentina

In total, it's roughly 45km/28mi with 1800m of elevation gain, 1000 of which are done one the last day.

Camp Locations: Suggest change

Plaza Argentina (4200m):  -32.64659, -69.94406
Camp 1 (5000m):                -32.63828, -69.97774
Camp Guanaco (5500m):  -32.63028, -70.00183
Camp Colera (6000m):      -32.63748, -70.01788
Plaza De Mulas (4300m):  -32.64833, -70.05824

Sample Schedule Suggest change

This is a sample schedule that is good if you are going unsupported and are not using any porters on the mountain. If using porters to help carry gear, it is possible to cut out a rest day at Camp 1, as well as the carry day to Camp 3.

Day 1: Penitentes/Vacas Valley Trailhead - Pampa de Lenas
Day 2: Pampa de Lenas - Casa De Piedra
Day 3: Casa de Piedra - Plaza Argentina
Day 4: Rest Day at Plaza Argentina
Day 5: Carry Gear to Camp 1, return to Plaza Argentina
Day 6: Rest Day at Plaza Argentina
Day 7: Move to Camp 1
Day 8: Carry Gear to Camp 2, return to Camp 1
Day 9: Rest Day at Camp 1
Day 10: Move to Camp 2
Day 11: Carry Gear to Camp 3, return to Camp 2
Day 12: Rest day at Camp 2
Day 13: Move to Camp 3
Day 14: Camp 3 - Summit - Camp 3
Day 15: Descend to Plaza De Mulas
Day 16: Plaza De Mulas - Honcones Valley Trailhead

Mules/Logistical Support Suggest change

Though not required, it is highly recommended to hire mules to help carry your equipment to Plaza Argentina, as well as from Plaza De Mulas to the Honcones Valley trailhead.

You could arrange this directly with a mule owner in Punta De Vacas, or the easiest solution is to contact one of the many local companies that provide support on the mountain. I have worked with Inka Expediciones before, and their communication and service is excellent. I assume the other companies are also just as good, but do not have any personal experience with them. With one of these companies, you are able to tailor your logistical support to fit whatever your needs.
You can either just hire mules to carry your gear to base camp, or you can also arrange to have food at base camp provided (to get a break from the dehydrated food and as not to have to carry as much) as well as many other sort of services that are offered to fully guided climbs.

Protection Suggest change

Helmet, Crampons, Ice Axe

Photos

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