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> Cerro Aconcagua
Polish Glacier
Easy 5th YDS 1+ French 3 Ewbanks I UIAA 5 ZA M 1c British AI2 Steep Snow R
Avg: 3.3 from 4
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Routes in Cerro Aconcagua
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360 Route Easy Snow |
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Normal Route Easy Snow |
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Polish Glacier T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c AI2 Steep Snow R |
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Polish Traverse Easy Snow |
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| Type: | Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 3610 ft (1094 m), 25 pitches, Grade VI |
| FA: | 1934, Polish Expedition led by Konstanty Jodko-Narkiewicz |
| Page Views: | 899 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Braden Batsford on Jan 13, 2020 |
| Admins: | Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Access Issue: Permits
Details
Permits are required to enter the park.
The permitting process is a fairly confusing and complicated and requires you to get your permits IN MENDOZA. You can only get single day trekking permits at the Honcones Valley Ranger Station.
More information about the park and the permitting process can be found here: aconcagua.mendoza.gov.ar/
2019/2020 Permit Rate Sheet can be found here: ambiente.wp1.mendoza.gov.ar…
The permitting process is a fairly confusing and complicated and requires you to get your permits IN MENDOZA. You can only get single day trekking permits at the Honcones Valley Ranger Station.
More information about the park and the permitting process can be found here: aconcagua.mendoza.gov.ar/
2019/2020 Permit Rate Sheet can be found here: ambiente.wp1.mendoza.gov.ar…
Description
A classic route that ascends the Polish Glacier up the East side of the mountain.
This route is not to be underestimated or taken lightly. This is a serious, technical, high altitude climb with serious risks. Due to the warming climate each season, the climb is becoming riskier and riskier, with fewer teams summiting or even attempting this route.
Years go by when this route is not climbed, and each year it is becoming more difficult to do so.
If you attempt this route, it is very likely you may be the only one to do so for the entire season. Above Camp 1, you will be on your own. Make sure you are competent at climbing and navigating up technical ground, while above 6000m/20,000ft.
The route can have a wide variety of conditions based on the weather conditions of the year.
The route can have extreme avi danger, large seracs and terrible loose rock. If possible, consult local guides to get as much beta as possible about current conditions.
It is recommended you pre-acclimatize on other nearby 6000m peaks beforehand so you are able to ascend the 1000m+ of technical climbing from Camp 2 to the summit in one push.
Summit day is generally 14-20 hours.
This route is not to be underestimated or taken lightly. This is a serious, technical, high altitude climb with serious risks. Due to the warming climate each season, the climb is becoming riskier and riskier, with fewer teams summiting or even attempting this route.
Years go by when this route is not climbed, and each year it is becoming more difficult to do so.
If you attempt this route, it is very likely you may be the only one to do so for the entire season. Above Camp 1, you will be on your own. Make sure you are competent at climbing and navigating up technical ground, while above 6000m/20,000ft.
The route can have a wide variety of conditions based on the weather conditions of the year.
The route can have extreme avi danger, large seracs and terrible loose rock. If possible, consult local guides to get as much beta as possible about current conditions.
It is recommended you pre-acclimatize on other nearby 6000m peaks beforehand so you are able to ascend the 1000m+ of technical climbing from Camp 2 to the summit in one push.
Summit day is generally 14-20 hours.
Location
From Plaza Argentina Base Camp, follow the standard 360 route to Camp 1.
From Camp 1, split off from the 360 route, and head to Camp 2 for the Polish Glacier.
From Camp 2, ascend head to the glacier.
From Camp 1, split off from the 360 route, and head to Camp 2 for the Polish Glacier.
From Camp 2, ascend head to the glacier.
Photos
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