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Flying with Goldens

5.13-, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 4 from 2 votes
FA: Wally Fox Jan, 3rd 2020
Oregon > Central Oregon > Trout Creek > Main Wall
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure 2020 UPDATE/Private Land Boundaries DetailsDrop down

Description

Original submission pared down to relevant info:
Place two pieces from the starting block and cast off.  Do three moves and place the red c3 no problem, ok, let's keep going!  Struggle with gear placement and endurance crux. Foot deadpoint, endurance crux, last boulder problem. There's a rest before the last boulder problem. The crux of this section is getting my left hand just right - it's a pinky down open hand flare lock.  And the ensuing right first finger mono lock. Flying high!

Protection

Around 10 blue Metolius/red c3 size and 5 in the purple Metolius/green c3 size and maybe a offset blue yellow.

(RP'd with pre-placed gear) - totally possible to place all gear on lead as I did many many times. 

History

Original submission from Wally Fox:

The Mega Proj
Could I do all the moves, I couldn't. That was in the fall of 2015 and since then I have spent Trout seasons (May 15 - Jan 15) climbing on it. It was my church, once a week rain, snow or heat I was there. Except when my wife was having our children and vacations or climbing trips. It's kinda funny when going to Yosemite Valley and you think to yourself I would probably rather go to Trout. Also, being a Dad and continuing to climb is challenging at times and I am so lucky to have a wife that supports this endeavor. Yesterday, January 4th 2020 I sent and couldn't have felt anymore psyched! I have so many great memories from this route.

The first couple seasons I top roped it just trying to figure out the beta. After figuring out most the beta it's best to give some lead goes - I believe that the learning curve greatly steepens and success becomes more likely this way. My goal for the first lead go was to just get the first piece in - that was it. Who better to belay me than Graham Zimmerman - super positive and ever attentive. I placed two pieces from the starting block and cast off. Did three moves and placed the red c3 no problem, ok, let's keep going! At the base of this route there were countless thoughts before stepping into the uncomfortable. One thought that sticks out is of a picture of my daughter (Marin) and I running together. She's running with her tongue out with the best smile on her face - pure joy, pure fun. That's how I want to climb - like how she was running. Season 3 ended on a cold winter day with Paul Knill. I got thru the first 20 feet on lead, placed the first 4 pieces, clipped the last piece, took and yelled out something... cause it was the first time sending thru that section. This is how the route went, there was always something to celebrate!

Season 4 was pretty awesome, I top roped it clean and high pointed on lead! I also remember taking a massive whip on it with Max Tepfer belaying. Max has a way of bringing out my best climbing. I had been struggling with a gear placement and endurance crux so I planned to skip a piece and run it out to the next gear placement. When I p laced the piece I heard Max say "just climb now", I did, I kept going and got thru the endurance crux - kinda - not really. The beta thru this section is super techy and I blew it, fell what felt like 30 feet, oh shiiiiit! Like all falls it came to an end but not without my foot taping Max's head first. That was close, didn't think I'd fall that far - didn't try that again.

There were also multiple season's that I'd psych myself up by listening to Led Zeplin, whole lotta love and No Quarter. Music is sometimes just the extra little de-stressor to loosen me up and I am happy to take any little advantage I can get.

I stepped up to the route thinking today could be the day but also knew that it could not be - I could fall again, like so many other days on the route. It happened! All the moves from bottom to top! I didn't fall at the foot deadpoint or the endurance crux or the last boulder problem. There's a rest before the last boulder problem and when I got there I took my time. When I first got there I thought there is no way - I'm to tired, to pumped, to gassed. I waited, slowly shook my arms one by one, I changed positions so I could de-pump my calves. My thoughts changed to I've done this many times before, in worse conditions and in weaker shape. The crux of this section was getting my left hand just right - it's a pinky down open hand flare lock. As the years past climbing on this project this hold got easier and easier to use. I nailed it and the ensuing right first finger mono lock. Each move closer to the chains was a celebration, moments like these are why I climb.

On the way home Lizzy and I talked route names and nothing stuck or seemed right. After Lizzy got out and I had a moment to myself, the name popped into my mind. Flying with Goldens - my eyes welled up with tears and I knew I had the route's name. I remember watching the Golden Eagles one day and how effortlessly they soared up into the sky - flying high! That was the feeling I had as I reached the chains.

Protection
It protects really well! While I sent with most all the gear pre-placed I have also climbed it in red-point style many times so you can to. The smallest cam I placed was a double 00 c3 and the largest was a yellow c3 towards the top, two yellows total. Lots of blue and purple Metolius and or red and green C3s. Around 10 blue Metolius/red c3 size and 5 in the purple Metolius/green c3 size. I also used a offset blue yellow.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Photo by Chris Wright
[Hide Photo] Photo by Chris Wright
Photo Corey M.
[Hide Photo] Photo Corey M.
After first crux
[Hide Photo] After first crux

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Could you please edit down this wall of text to the most important 100 words and add the rest in the comments? The majority of people will see this in the app, looking for climb-specific beta. Congrats on the send and stuff, but the personal-detail-laden backstory is a little much. Feb 7, 2020
Wally Fox
Bend, OR
  5.13-
[Hide Comment] I forgot something, The Bats! Many summer season's I would hike into Trout at dawn to get the best temps. At dawn during the summer the temp is around 60-70 so friction is still pretty good, good enough to make progress. So I would leave Bend around 3am so I could get to the to the columns around 4:30 - but that's when the bats are most active. Bats would fly in front of my headlamp time and time again, slowly I developed a deep fear for these little fockers. Then one day pulling into the crack I found a little furry devil in the back of a crux lock. I think I named him Fred - I decided not to disturb him and just climb past. I accepted this as part of the process and let it be. After 4 years of climbing on this project with multiple days out there solo I can recall many little lessons like this one.

My first time at Trout, I couldn't get up gold rush and I think that if I can do a route like Flying with Goldens then anyone can. My story is intended to help inspire someone to get after it! Be patient and work your ass off! Feb 20, 2020
JD Merritt
Eugene, OR
[Hide Comment] Nice send Wally, way to fight it out!

Nate, go climbing instead of playing description cop.
-Sincerely, JD Feb 23, 2020
[Hide Comment] JD, I don't get paid for either, but somehow I manage to do both. Cheers! Feb 23, 2020
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
[Hide Comment] +1 for enjoying the personal histories of various routes. I get it that it would be a headache if every route in the database were like this, but they're not and won't ever be. (because for most they weren't that personally significant for whoever's posting the route) Thanks for sharing your story Wally! I'm glad it's here and think that it and submissions like it are what give MP.com character. The database would be less without it. May 27, 2020
Dylan Harris
Bariloche, Rio Negro, AR
[Hide Comment] Wally,

Your face showed up on the Mtn. Project picture feed today! I thought to myself, "Hey I know that guy!, what's he up to?" Dude, awesome send on this project! Congratulations!! I loved reading your description of the history. Aug 17, 2020