PRINT: Rock Climb Dusty Squeeze, Central Ohio

Dusty Squeeze

5.8+, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 3.1 from 7 votes
FA: Taylor Wilson
Ohio > Central Ohio > Marne Rd > D. Katz Wall

Access Issue: Private Property Details

The right (east) side, all roped climbing, is owned by Village of Hanover, which seems ambivalent to climbing. Left side, bouldering, is private property, but the owner has not had a problem with climbing SO FAR. Continued access is far from guaranteed! Rapidly growing crag traffic has become a potential issue.

On the bouldering (west) side, please do not hang out up top or go exploring above the main cliff line. It is private property and we need to keep a low profile. The owner has been hands off so far. Let's try to ensure things stay that way please. Hanging out up top could cause problems with the property owner.

Please do not climb above the roped climbs. Hanging out on the edge of the cliff without ropes is dangerous and the last thing we want is to have an ambulance/injury/fatality there. Please don't endanger crag access through short-sighted behavior!

Please be upstanders and take good care of the crag to help preserve access. Don't leave your trash, and even pack out any trash somebody else might have left behind.

Description

Great off width! Very fun with great placements. Start in the OW with good pro or climb the 5.7 face to the right with no pro to the first ledge. After the small tree mid route squeeze your way and stem up the crack. To finish, top out with a well protected but thought provoking crux. Bolted anchors in place.

Will be dripping water for most of late winter and well into the spring.

Location

This route is the crack to the left of Silver Streak(5.9). It has a small tree growing out of it 20’ up.

Protection

Standard rack, but 5s and 6s would be great although it’s doable without them, set of nuts and some slings for natural pro if your into that sort of thing.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Is it Dusty Squeeze or Slimy Squeeze? Just depends on the time of year I guess! Hard to tell from this camera angle, but the route is longer than many at the crag since it goes to the top, so it's…

Dusty squeeze

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

climb2core

Nice work and congrats on the FA! We can get anchors on it. And don't worry about cleaning it. If you're gonna do off width in Ohio, your standards are already ridiculously low ;) But slightly more seriously... after we get some anchors on it, it would be great if you did put some time into cleaning it up. Dec 9, 2019

Jordan Katz
Ohio

5.8

Based on your 4-star rating Ian, I'm assuming you are thereby volunteering to clean it! Oh, and don't forget you'll need to climb it too. But don't worry, we'll wait until the conditions improve this winter and it's nice and dripping wet and slimier than a snail's ass. Then and only then will it be a proper off-width send. Just let me know when you want that catch! I'll even lend you my big cams. lol Dec 9, 2019

Taylor Wilson

5.8+

Haha thanks guys for the guidance! Ill get to the top out and to the cleaning of the route when I get back to the wall(shouldn’t be too long)! Dec 9, 2019

Taylor Wilson

5.8+

The first cleaning session is done! A couple more and its going to be a five star route haha. But seriously its defiantly free of about 5 lbs of lichen! I'll be back next week to clean some more. I did throw some chalk x's up at the top for where I think the anchors should be, but if you guys think otherwise put them wherever you want, you guys are the experts! You weren't kidding about the shovel either, there are so many thorn bushes up there! Dec 12, 2019

Jordan Katz
Ohio

5.8

I did another cleanup session on this today and dropped my fixed line. While nobody would claim the name isn't true anymore, I can assure you there is a lot less dust now... since about a pound of it went in my lungs!
Taylor, did you get a proper FA on this thing yet? Based on the ticks, it looks like it. You should add the FA if so. I might get on it myself now that you can see the rock under the lichen, moss, and dirt! Jan 8, 2020

Taylor Wilson

5.8+

Thanks a lot man haha ya there’s always a good pound of dust to swallow on the route! Okay cool I’ll throw a couple up next time I’m there, and yes I did get the official FA and for sure hop on it man! Let me know about the grade as well, the more I climb on it the easier it gets! Jan 8, 2020

Courtney Curtner
Dayton, OH

Taylor- I just updated the route FA so you get official credit for it! Congrats! Now I just need to get my butt out to Marne to check out this route for myself! Jan 9, 2020

Jordan Duncan
Norwalk, OH

5.8+

Fantastic job with this route Taylor, and a pleasure to meet you while I was on it. Unique route for OH climbing and quite a fun romp to the top of the cliff. Aug 13, 2020