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Vector Analysis

5.11b, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 4 from 11 votes
FA: Brian Elliott, 1990
California > San Bernardino… > N Slope > Juniper Flats Area > Butt Rock Outcrop

Description

Climb the stunning arete on the south end of Butt Rock. One of the better aretes around, this was featured  in some magazine years ago with a great photo of Beth Renn leading it. 

Location

The obvious arete on the south side of the boulder, immediately to the left of Getting Small.

Protection

7 bolts to anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Beth Renn on Vector Analysis (5.11b), San Bernardino Mountains
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Photo by Greg Epperson
[Hide Photo] Beth Renn on Vector Analysis (5.11b), San Bernardino Mountains Photo by Greg Epperson
Brad leading Vector Analysis
[Hide Photo] Brad leading Vector Analysis
Leading vector analysis
[Hide Photo] Leading vector analysis
Leading vector analysis at the crux.
[Hide Photo] Leading vector analysis at the crux.
towards easier upper part of the route
[Hide Photo] towards easier upper part of the route
The old first bolt.
[Hide Photo] The old first bolt.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brad MacArthur
Bishop, CA
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] What’s with the pg-13 rating? If you are worried about the 5/16 button head bolts they are solid. I and a friend tried replacing the bolts and we only got to the first since it took us 2.5 hours to get it out and replaced with a 3/8” bolt. The bolt we pulled was solid and not rusted - see picture I uploaded. I would love to finish the job but need a better way to get those button heads out. Shoot me a pm if you can help. I am pretty sure there are 7 bolts, not 5. This route is as good as it gets, if it were easily accessible it would be covered in chalk and shoe rubber! Mar 9, 2020
William Leventhal
Calabasas
  5.11b PG13
[Hide Comment] Brad, I gave it a PG-13 rating because compared to most sport climbing routes, Vector Analysis is a bit more runout than most sport routes. If you blow the 2nd or 3rd clip, you could potentially hit the ground. Most people breaking into the 5.11 grade would find it to be an intimidating lead.

In regards to removing & replacing the bolts, Kristain Solem is someone to consult. I'll ask him for his advice on removing those 5/16 bolts. I'd be happy to help with bolt replacement. P.M. me when the weather improves. Mar 10, 2020
Mingming Y
Netherlands
  5.11a/b
[Hide Comment] fall before the 2nd bolt can be bad, but the rest is well protected, Lower 4 bolts a bit harder than the upper 3 bolts, Great route !
The 5th bolt is a spinner (and 4th bolt to a lesser extent), but totally climbable! Apr 25, 2021
slim

  5.11b
[Hide Comment] superb route. i would probably give it a flat PG rating. ie a typical sport wanker, like myself, will probably be a bit uncomfortable climbing above the bolts on the non-stop nebulous cryptic climbing. Oct 3, 2022
David Katz
Calabasas, CA
[Hide Comment] The perfect granite edge just begs to be climbed when you get there.
Really enjoyable! Jan 22, 2024