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Routes in Carney Springs Wall
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De Grazia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Honeymooners P1 Variation, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Honeymooners, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Norton's Notion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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To Air is Human T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | Damon Williams, Paul Paonessa, 1990 |
| Page Views: | 1,631 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | sean peters on Nov 30, 2019 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Access Issue: PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS!
Details
In the early '90's the USFS banned all placement of bolts in the Superstition Wilderness. This unfortunately includes replacement of existing bolts. Violating this ban may result in climbing restrictions on this beautiful area. Please think twice and go bolt somewhere else.
Description
Norton's Notion is an enjoyable and semi-protectable climb that is straightforward and easy to stay on route. Whoever Norton is/was his vision for the line is a nice addition to the area. The route can be done in three pitches to five pitches depending on where you choose to belay, there are several comfy ledges to stop along the way.
Pitch one can be climbed using two bolts or soloed just to the left by several yards. Either variation is easy, one is tad bit safer.
Pitch two can be linked with three. Enter short, quick crack that leads to wide, chimney like climbing. Continue past obvious belay ledge and climb somewhat grungy crack with mini-roof to another spacious ledge. This feels like the crux of the entire climb but decent face holds keeps things civilized.
Pitch four and five can be linked and both have quality rock and ample protection. Cross the chasm and continue up steep crack that will eventually trend behind the main formation. Stay in crack to its end, a neat roof will be passed on climbers left just before the great belay ledge.
Pitch six wanders up a tad before turning a corner and entering an easy chimney system. Climb chimney to exit above and scramble easy rock too obvious highpoint (not the true summit of the wall). We did a very short rap/handline to get off this highpoint and to the rap stations of De Grazia.
Pitch one can be climbed using two bolts or soloed just to the left by several yards. Either variation is easy, one is tad bit safer.
Pitch two can be linked with three. Enter short, quick crack that leads to wide, chimney like climbing. Continue past obvious belay ledge and climb somewhat grungy crack with mini-roof to another spacious ledge. This feels like the crux of the entire climb but decent face holds keeps things civilized.
Pitch four and five can be linked and both have quality rock and ample protection. Cross the chasm and continue up steep crack that will eventually trend behind the main formation. Stay in crack to its end, a neat roof will be passed on climbers left just before the great belay ledge.
Pitch six wanders up a tad before turning a corner and entering an easy chimney system. Climb chimney to exit above and scramble easy rock too obvious highpoint (not the true summit of the wall). We did a very short rap/handline to get off this highpoint and to the rap stations of De Grazia.
Location
Follow the obscene, pointless, careless, idiotic white arrows or the obnoxious, loud, flavorfully dressed crowds as they grunt their way to the over-popular, over-photographed, over-hyped Wave Cave. At the urine-soaked, littered, "get your Instagram photo" Wave Cave entrance head to the right and follow path to base of wall. Less than one hour from vehicle to base of wall.
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