PRINT: Rock Climb The Underdog, Big Rock Mountain

The Underdog

5.9, Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m),

Avg: 3.1 from 33 votes
FA: Wes Whitaker, Eric Dudley
S Carolina > Big Rock Mountain > Arch Wall

Access Issue: Neighborhood Parking Details

Please be mindful of the neighbors on Big Rock Lake Road. Do not park along the road, generate excessive noise in the parking lot or at the cliff, or camp out. If the parking is full, use the spot at the intersection of Preston McDaniel and Nine Times Roads. This is a neighborhood, drive slow and be courteous. Violating one of these rules is an easy way to get the cliff shutdown for everyone.

Description

Anyone that frequents Big Rock has likely walked right past this crack a million times and either ignored it or wondered what must be under its jungle of vines and briars. It took two days of excavating and gardening to clean, but here it is... a stellar new addition to Big Rock’s collection of classics.

The crux gets on you fast and sustains for two or three moves. Getting into the crack is the business. Once there, find a few hand jams and work on your crack technique to get to easier ground. Gear is a bit tricky down low (depending on your stance, you may have a blind placement or two), but good. Singles of .3 through 2 sow it up. Rap/lower or choose the safe and easy walk-off.

Bring your nut tool and help us continue to clean it out. With additional cleaning and a season of rain, this crack should only get better (and perhaps, a bit easier). Enjoy!

Location

Arch Wall - obvious crack system just before the fixed line on the main trail (follow directions for the Arch Wall).

Protection

singles .3 - 2 (BD); Tri cams are fun. Hangers and rap rings up top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jace making the big reach

Jamming up the crack while guiding for Pisgah Climbing School!

Tori gets a taste of crack climbing. Conner on belay.

Anchors/Rap station

The start

The start during the final stages of cleaning

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chris K
Clemson, SC

5.9

4 star crack climb for the area. Single rack sows it. Save the #2, #3 for up top. Nuts work well. Dec 19, 2019

Nat Mann

Agree. Great climb to add to Big Rock - thanks to Wes and Eric for digging it out! Single rack to #2 +/- nuts, and you're good to go. Mar 15, 2020

Joseph Hill
Columbia, SC

Super cool route, probably my favorite at Big Rock. I waited to get my first piece until just before making the move from the right crack to the left crack, though this was kinda suspect for a couple of reasons. It's a blind placement (I used a .4 Z4 but I think anything from .3 to .5 could go depending on where in the crack you are) into a super crystally and featured crack, so its hard to tell how good your piece is. This was the only piece protecting the crux and didn't inspire a whole lot of confidence, but I made the move and things went ok. Definitely possible to protect this route super well, just make sure you take the time to feel around the crack you have to place blind into and find the best possible spot, since that's the only way you'll be able to evaluate the piece you make the delicate crux move on. Dec 24, 2023

Danny Bell
Buford, GA

route beta

youtu.be/osH9vhGOUiw?si=GgK… Mar 18, 2024

Westry Whitaker
Cumming

5.9

thanks y'all! so glad you enjoy!

Hey Danny - crack gloves are aid for this route. lol Mar 18, 2024