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5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.6 from 5
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Routes in Humpback Mountain 驼背山
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Grandfathered In S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 475 ft (144 m), 6 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | ATao 阿涛, Andrew Hedesh 8/2013 * EQ AHedesh, SDilks, MDobie, JGraham 2013 |
| Page Views: | 606 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | James McGlynn on Nov 17, 2019 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball, Dan Flynn |
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Description
This climb is six pitches and the top three pitches of the route are NOT descended. If you are doing single rope rappels (min 60 meter rope, 70m rope preferred) then you will have 7 raps.
P1 5.7 22m 8bolts 1star : Straightforward easy climbing
P2 5.7 22m 8bolts 1star : Very similar to and can be combined with P1. If you want to protect the climbing while passing the anchor you'd need 17 draws to link the pitches as well as any gear you'd need to setup your belay at the anchor of P2. As the crux pitches are 5.10d, it's likely that you'd be able to skip some bolts or down climb to conserve draws when linking these two pitches.
P3 5.8 18m 7bolts 2stars : The first interesting pitch! Scramble left and then go up between the two faces.
P4 5.10d 32m 13bolts 3stars : Once you are at the top of P3 there is more than one route to choose from. P4 of this climb heads out right for a couple bolts before going up. The short traverse over before heading up may seem like the crux of the route when going through this section for the first time, but the real crux is at the top around the last bolt before the anchor. How will you get to that patch of tufas!?
P5 5.10d 28m 13bolts 4stars : Definitely the money pitch. Again there is more than one route from this anchor, and again start by going out right for a couple bolts before going up and then actually, back out left and up for much of the rest of the pitch. The crux of this pitch, and I think the crux of the entire route is in the beginning of this pitch. Once you gain a small ledge that puts you essentially above your belayer, the worst should be behind you! But don't get complacent, the rest of the pitch is certainly not a gimme at the grade and after a potential route reading error you could find yourself with good jugs and no feet.
P6 5.8 22m 12bolts 0 stars : Sharp scrambly runout climbing to the anchor. Some people have difficulty finding the next bolt on this pitch. The pitch trends very slightly left as it goes up, but starts to trend back right near the top. If you can't find a bolt, just go back to the last bolt and look around.
Congratulations, you're now almost 500 feet off the ground! Try to ignore the sound of construction and appreciate the beautiful view.
P1 5.7 22m 8bolts 1star : Straightforward easy climbing
P2 5.7 22m 8bolts 1star : Very similar to and can be combined with P1. If you want to protect the climbing while passing the anchor you'd need 17 draws to link the pitches as well as any gear you'd need to setup your belay at the anchor of P2. As the crux pitches are 5.10d, it's likely that you'd be able to skip some bolts or down climb to conserve draws when linking these two pitches.
P3 5.8 18m 7bolts 2stars : The first interesting pitch! Scramble left and then go up between the two faces.
P4 5.10d 32m 13bolts 3stars : Once you are at the top of P3 there is more than one route to choose from. P4 of this climb heads out right for a couple bolts before going up. The short traverse over before heading up may seem like the crux of the route when going through this section for the first time, but the real crux is at the top around the last bolt before the anchor. How will you get to that patch of tufas!?
P5 5.10d 28m 13bolts 4stars : Definitely the money pitch. Again there is more than one route from this anchor, and again start by going out right for a couple bolts before going up and then actually, back out left and up for much of the rest of the pitch. The crux of this pitch, and I think the crux of the entire route is in the beginning of this pitch. Once you gain a small ledge that puts you essentially above your belayer, the worst should be behind you! But don't get complacent, the rest of the pitch is certainly not a gimme at the grade and after a potential route reading error you could find yourself with good jugs and no feet.
P6 5.8 22m 12bolts 0 stars : Sharp scrambly runout climbing to the anchor. Some people have difficulty finding the next bolt on this pitch. The pitch trends very slightly left as it goes up, but starts to trend back right near the top. If you can't find a bolt, just go back to the last bolt and look around.
Congratulations, you're now almost 500 feet off the ground! Try to ignore the sound of construction and appreciate the beautiful view.
Location
There is currently construction constantly going on around this crag. Directions to the crag, the description of the approach, etc. can all change very quickly!
You can find this crag on maps.me. As you approach the general area you will be able to tell which karst is Humpback mountain very easily due to its unique shape and size for the area. As you approach (coming from Yangshuo downtown) the karst should be on your right hand side. There is a little driveway leading to a small cave with tables and chairs at the base of the mountain. This is NOT the entrance to the base of the first pitch. Keep going down the road another 50-100 feet to the next possible right turn. Find a place to park and look for a trail that enters and goes up and slightly left to the base of the first pitch.
You can find this crag on maps.me. As you approach the general area you will be able to tell which karst is Humpback mountain very easily due to its unique shape and size for the area. As you approach (coming from Yangshuo downtown) the karst should be on your right hand side. There is a little driveway leading to a small cave with tables and chairs at the base of the mountain. This is NOT the entrance to the base of the first pitch. Keep going down the road another 50-100 feet to the next possible right turn. Find a place to park and look for a trail that enters and goes up and slightly left to the base of the first pitch.
Protection
Bolts and anchors. Most rappel stations have rap rings and a chain, but two of the anchors are independant bolts with a single quicklink on one of the bolts!
Rappelling
The General Idea:
There are three single rope rappels that get you from the top anchor/belay station back to the route at the top of P4. As you near the end of the third rap, you must start clipping into the bolts that are part of the beginning of P5 in order to make it to the anchor of P4. If you forget, you'll be hanging about 7 feet away from the wall and a few feet to the right of the anchor.
Single Rope Rappels:
Rap1: Go slowly and look around, you'll find the next rap station 22 meters below. Hanging belay.
Rap2: This rap is a bit more straightforward. Another 22 meters to another hanging belay station. You do rap by a roof on this one, but don't worry, you make it back to the wall just in time for the anchor.
Rap3: YOU MUST BACKCLIP in order to get to the anchor of P4. Semi hanging belay with some decent feet to stand on. At the end of the third rap you are back on the route. The rest of the descent is by abseiling the route.
Rap4: rap down P4. The longest rappel at 32 meters ( I did it on a 60 meter rope and it just made it ) Comfortable belay/rap station.
Rap5: rap down P3
Rap6: rap down P2
Rap7: rap down P1 to the ground.
A Note for Two Rope Rappels with 2 x 70m ropes:
- If you combine the first two raps (rap1 and rap2), and then the next two raps (rap3 and rap4), you don't need to backclip as you will be skipping the anchor of P4 and be going directly to the anchor of P3. I have done this.
- You can theoretically combine the last three raps into one, but I don't recommend it as there are lots of trees and things for the rope to get stuck on. I recommend doing rap5 by itself and then raps 6 and 7 can be combined.
General Notes about Rappelling this Route:
- The rock at the top of this route is very sharp and featured and could easily snag a rope on it's way down. If you get stranded on one of the rap stations before rejoining the route, there is not much you'll be able to do except for call for help. I recommend bringing an extra rope.
There are three single rope rappels that get you from the top anchor/belay station back to the route at the top of P4. As you near the end of the third rap, you must start clipping into the bolts that are part of the beginning of P5 in order to make it to the anchor of P4. If you forget, you'll be hanging about 7 feet away from the wall and a few feet to the right of the anchor.
Single Rope Rappels:
Rap1: Go slowly and look around, you'll find the next rap station 22 meters below. Hanging belay.
Rap2: This rap is a bit more straightforward. Another 22 meters to another hanging belay station. You do rap by a roof on this one, but don't worry, you make it back to the wall just in time for the anchor.
Rap3: YOU MUST BACKCLIP in order to get to the anchor of P4. Semi hanging belay with some decent feet to stand on. At the end of the third rap you are back on the route. The rest of the descent is by abseiling the route.
Rap4: rap down P4. The longest rappel at 32 meters ( I did it on a 60 meter rope and it just made it ) Comfortable belay/rap station.
Rap5: rap down P3
Rap6: rap down P2
Rap7: rap down P1 to the ground.
A Note for Two Rope Rappels with 2 x 70m ropes:
- If you combine the first two raps (rap1 and rap2), and then the next two raps (rap3 and rap4), you don't need to backclip as you will be skipping the anchor of P4 and be going directly to the anchor of P3. I have done this.
- You can theoretically combine the last three raps into one, but I don't recommend it as there are lots of trees and things for the rope to get stuck on. I recommend doing rap5 by itself and then raps 6 and 7 can be combined.
General Notes about Rappelling this Route:
- The rock at the top of this route is very sharp and featured and could easily snag a rope on it's way down. If you get stranded on one of the rap stations before rejoining the route, there is not much you'll be able to do except for call for help. I recommend bringing an extra rope.
Grade Notes
The grade is based on two climbers that know what they are doing, climbing efficiently. If you don't do a lot of multipitch or don't climb a lot of 5.10d, you could find yourself rapping in the dark. Bring that head lamp and either have cell service or make sure someone is expecting you back in town.
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