Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Transylvania Trip
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.1 from 22
votes
Routes in Castle Rock
|
|
Bloody Mary S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
Coronation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Dark Ages T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Disenchantment T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
|
|
Dungeon Diving T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Elfo's Revenge S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Excalibur T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Gargoyle T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Gillotine (left) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Gillotine (right) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Henchman T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Jester T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
King's Cup S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Mid-Evil Times T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Mrs. Robinson T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Nights of the Round Table S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
North Face Route, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Off With His Chickenhead! S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Pitchfork Uprising S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Royalty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
South Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Transylvania Trip T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Tweaker S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Welcome to the Royal Family S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Witch Doctor, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 6 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Derek & Giselle Field (Nov 2019) — ground-up |
| Page Views: | 2,695 total · 44/month |
| Shared By: | Derek Field on Nov 11, 2019 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
This is a multi-pitch variety pack up one of the tallest crack systems on the formation. The pitches are all about the same difficulty, more or less, but quite different from one another. There is a crux boulder problem on the final pitch. This route has all bolted belays and all day shade. Use caution as the route is still cleaning up.
Pitch 1 (5.8+, 70'): Approach pitch can be fun with the right attitude. Climb the mossy/sandy right-leaning ramp past marginal gear and 5 well-camouflaged bolts. Two-bolt belay on ledge between junipers.
Pitch 2 (5.8, 60'): Ramble up sandy lumps into the short/sweet offwidth. Two-bolt belay in alcove.
Pitch 3 (5.8, 60'): Quest up the cavernous chimney to a wild roof exit. Two-bolt belay on ledge.
Pitch 4 (5.7+, 70'): Walk right along the ramp and climb the left-facing offwidth staircase. Two-bolt belay on ledge.
Pitch 5 (5.8, 70'): Just right of the belay anchor is a left-facing chimney with a splitter fist crack beside it. Jam and stem this arrangement to a ledge with two-bolt anchor. Be careful of loose stones in the chimney.
Pitch 6 (5.9+, 70'): Follow the finger crack up to a two-bolt boulder problem on amazing patina crimps. Walk 10' right to a varnished handcrack which steepens for a heroic finish. Throw a fist pump from the finishing jug! Craft a thoughtful belay using horizontals and a bomber thread.
Easy scrambling along the ridge takes you to the summit.
Descent: From the top of the route, walk 20 feet left (east) and find the two-bolt chain anchor. Rap from here to the P5 anchor, then rap the route. With a 70m rope, you can skip the P2 anchor.
12 Comments