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Routes in Ginger Buttress
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Snake Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fist or Flips T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Somewhere Over the Rainbow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Cumin Trafficking T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Life Aquatic, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Power Failure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jack's Lament T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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All You Can Eat T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Grab 'Em T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unimpeachable Groping S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Idiocracy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unintelligible Groaning T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Ginger Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ginger Crack Variation Finish (Der Guberbaum) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Like Tears in Rain T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Blade Runner (aka The Ginger Arête) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Ginger Buttress (full), The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Spice T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Sugar T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Cayenne Corners T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Salty Dog T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Waterstreak Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dry Rub T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Thyme Alone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 325 ft (98 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | P1 & 2: Tony Calderone; P3: Unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,156 total · 32/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Nov 5, 2019 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Sugar is a line established by Tony Calderone but left unreported until later rediscovered, documented, and given a name by Larry DeAngelo in the early 2000’s (see comment below). Recently it has been extended another pitch to a logical conclusion higher on the wall. This final pitch, dubbed “The Sugar Glider” is a sublime pitch of Red Rocks slab and seam climbing that elevates what was already a really good, but under appreciated, route to what I think is neo-classic status. As a bonus, from the top of The Sugar Glider, one can easily connect with the 4th pitch of Ginger Cracks if you want to continue with that route. Alternatively, rappel with a single 60m rope.
P1 (5.7, 95’): Climb the left side of the lowest buttress that is about 30’ right of the start of Ginger Cracks. Some fragile rock, protected by two bolts, gives way to a finger crack in nice varnish. One more bolt and gear placements lead to an anchor, or link easily into the next pitch.
P2 (5.10a, 80’): Climb a shallow left-facing corner and arete past 5x bolts and opportunities for gear to a bolted anchor on a nice ledge. Note that two bolts were removed from this pitch due to their proximity to bombproof gear placements. A great pitch.
P3 (5.10d PG13, 150’): The Sugar Glider: A classic pitch! Climb the beautiful, narrow panel of rock sandwiched between a seam on the left and the arete to the right. High on the pitch trend left towards a final bolt in an overlap and the shallow right-facing corner just above. Step up and left (do not follow the corner) to easier climbing up a thin crack to an anchor. 9x bolts and gear protect.
Descent: Rap 90’ straight down to an anchor on Spice, then continue down Sugar the rest of the way. Alternatively, climb up and left to join the 4th pitch of Ginger Cracks.
P1 (5.7, 95’): Climb the left side of the lowest buttress that is about 30’ right of the start of Ginger Cracks. Some fragile rock, protected by two bolts, gives way to a finger crack in nice varnish. One more bolt and gear placements lead to an anchor, or link easily into the next pitch.
P2 (5.10a, 80’): Climb a shallow left-facing corner and arete past 5x bolts and opportunities for gear to a bolted anchor on a nice ledge. Note that two bolts were removed from this pitch due to their proximity to bombproof gear placements. A great pitch.
P3 (5.10d PG13, 150’): The Sugar Glider: A classic pitch! Climb the beautiful, narrow panel of rock sandwiched between a seam on the left and the arete to the right. High on the pitch trend left towards a final bolt in an overlap and the shallow right-facing corner just above. Step up and left (do not follow the corner) to easier climbing up a thin crack to an anchor. 9x bolts and gear protect.
Descent: Rap 90’ straight down to an anchor on Spice, then continue down Sugar the rest of the way. Alternatively, climb up and left to join the 4th pitch of Ginger Cracks.
Location
Approximately 40' right of the start of Ginger Cracks on the left side of a low, blunt buttress. Look for a bolt 50' up.
Protection
1x cams from tiny to #1 Camalot.
A small set of stoppers... or is it a set of small stoppers?
12x draws/slings.
60m rope.
All of the anchors have been improved with better hardware for descent. A few of the terrible Leeper hangers on the route were swapped for modern hangers and two unnecessary pro bolts on the second pitch were removed altogether. All hardware is adequate as of 2019.
A small set of stoppers... or is it a set of small stoppers?
12x draws/slings.
60m rope.
All of the anchors have been improved with better hardware for descent. A few of the terrible Leeper hangers on the route were swapped for modern hangers and two unnecessary pro bolts on the second pitch were removed altogether. All hardware is adequate as of 2019.
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