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Unslung Heroes
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British R
Avg: 2.6 from 8
votes
Routes in j. The Yellow Wall and The Seasons
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No Man's Land T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Tiers of Fear T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Yellow Wall, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Lost in Yellow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Scary Area T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Airy Aria T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Carbs and Caffeine T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wasp Stop T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Prick, The T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Sting, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Lisa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Asil T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Mona T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Full Face (pitch 2 only) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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48 T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Vader T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ventre de Boeuf T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Uphill all the Way AKA The Man Who Fell to Earth T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Double Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lito and the Swan T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Ivan and the Saum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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49 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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High Jinx T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Broken Hammer T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Nose, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Lady's Lament-Boldville T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fillipina T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Boldina T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bold-Ville T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Winter, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fall, The T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Summer, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X |
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Spring (P1), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Manly, Yes, But I Like It Too T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Oblique Twique T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tweak or Freak T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Amor Conditionnel T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Shit Creek T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dissonance T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unslung Heroes T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Los Tres Cabrones T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Blistered Toe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Torture Garden T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | John Bragg and Ivan Rezucha, 1975 |
| Page Views: | 891 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | M Santisi on Nov 3, 2019 · Updates |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio |
Description
Pitch 1: Climb up the face to a small ledge. Take the path of least resistance off of the ledge until you're situated below the roof and next to the left-facing corner. Creative but good pro is available before pulling into the stance below the roof. Pull the roof and continue up the slab until you reach a wide horizontal capped by a small roof. Surmounting the roof is the crux. Continue up to the ledge and walk right to the Blistered Toe anchors.
Pitch 2 (from szheng): Head up on easy ground to the base of the steep orange wall. Climb more or less straight up for about 30-40' on perfect crimps, avoiding the lower quality rock to the left. Join the right facing corner, place some tricky gear, and prepare for the boulder problem at the roof. Dirty top out on jugs to a cord anchor around a tree with steel rap rings.
Guidebook says "what a sleeper!" and I have to agree. Sustained face movement on beautiful stone with a spice factor! More people should do this route. Do it in one pitch from the ground, rope drag is hardly an issue. Bring doubles in finger sizes.
2 Comments